Corset showing thru fabric

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Clare Louise

Corset showing thru fabric

Postby Clare Louise » Wed Mar 06, 2013 9:12 pm

I am perplexed at how the corset does not show in original images of early Edwardian women in their lovely gowns made of Silk Satin or such like. Any idea's on how they achieved this!?

I have worn my Edwardian corset successfully under a cotton/linen blend skirt with a cotton petticoat. No worries about seeing the corset at all.

However silk/satin is a different ketttle of fish altogether! :? You can see every lump and bump since this type of fabric is very unforgiving. I have even tried using an extra petticoat but the bumps of the corset busk still show thru.

I am using the Trumpet Skirt pattern which is very slim fitting at the hips/stomach and the TV Edwardian corset. How did these ladies solve this problem. I realise that the corset helps create that S-Bend shape and therefore the skirt will hang slightly away from the body. but it's that bit just below the waist that is the problem.

In original photographs it is obvious these ladies are wearing corsets with their very tiny cinched in waists - but no tell tale signs of the corset itself. What am I doing wrong?
Heather
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Re: Corset showing thru fabric

Postby Heather » Wed Mar 06, 2013 10:13 pm

Do you have a photo of the issue you are talking about?

I think part of the problem is your fabric, satin. Anytime you use a shiny fabric like satin, you will see every minute deviation in the surface. You don't see very much satin in the Edwardian era; wool and lined are the prefered fabrics.

That being said, you should not be seeing the busk. That sounds like an issue with the fit of the corset. Or maybe the skirt is too tight over the hip.
Clare Louise

Re: Corset showing thru fabric

Postby Clare Louise » Mon Mar 11, 2013 12:06 am

Right - some pics of my corset showing problem:

The centre back seam is only pinned at this stage - and yes I am wearing the petticoat with a double frill underneath
DSCF2861.jpg
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The fabric I am using is a Duchesse Satin also known as Delustered Satin
DSCF2862.jpg
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I do not have the bust pads inserted as I am in the processing of moving house and have already packed them away somewhere!
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Last edited by Clare Louise on Mon Mar 11, 2013 12:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
Clare Louise

Re: Corset showing thru fabric

Postby Clare Louise » Mon Mar 11, 2013 12:25 am

This is the sort of dress I am trying to recreate. I realise the original was most likely pure silk. And I don't have wide hips (or maybe it's the tiny waist I am missing?)!

57.83.22a-b_front_CP4.jpg
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Heather
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Re: Corset showing thru fabric

Postby Heather » Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:34 am

Oh, so pretty! I know that this issue is bothering you, but I am not sure it's that big of a deal. I have seen plenty of photos from long ago that clearly show bumps and ridges of the corset. Most of them are from natural form period, where the dresses are very tightly fitted, but you do see it. Something else to consider, is that the point of your bodice is going to cover most the distance to the bottom of the busk.

I think there might be a couple things to try. First, I do think part of the problem might be that it might be a little but snug over the hips. You might try letting out a couple of the seams and see it that helps at all.

Second, you could try backing the satin with a light weight twill or canvas to help smooth over the corset. This might cause a new sew of problems, though, like a change in color, or a new line showing at the bottom of the twill piece. Which could be solved by flat lining the whole skirt. This will also help create that smooth heavy look of the dress you are recreating.
Clare Louise

Re: Corset showing thru fabric

Postby Clare Louise » Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:50 am

Thanks for your helpul advise Heather. I originally cut the skirt out of a silk blend fabric but it was rather more lightweight and you could see the corset underneath, even with the petticoat, it has beautiful drape though:
Skirt1.jpg
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I may use this as an extra layer perhaps?

How can you NOT see this ladies corset busk??!
101.jpg
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Helena
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Re: Corset showing thru fabric

Postby Helena » Sun May 05, 2013 4:49 am

As for the last photo: There were Photoshop back in victorian/edwardian time. It is called photo retouching. Not digitally but with paintbrush.

Basically all photos taken in studio were retouched I have read. It was a part of the deal, basically. Because it was a photo taken at the studio and it is such a rare occasion to take photos of course you would want it to be as perfect as possible. :)

Then the ladies wore corset covers and numerous of petticoats, it smoothen things more.
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Re: Corset showing thru fabric

Postby Helena » Sun May 05, 2013 4:50 am

As for the last photo: There were Photoshop back in victorian/edwardian time. It is called photo retouching. Not digitally but with paintbrush.

Basically all photos taken in studio were retouched I have read. It was a part of the deal, basically. Because it was a photo taken at the studio and it is such a rare occasion to take photos of course you would want it to be as perfect as possible. :)

Then the ladies wore corset covers and numerous of petticoats, it smoothen things more.
I am guilty to this too, no corset cover and only one petti. But for the next dress I am going to make two pettis (or really, another one, over the one I have already). :)

Are you wearing petticoat between the skirt and the corset?
Miss Cindy
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Re: Corset showing thru fabric

Postby Miss Cindy » Thu Jun 06, 2013 7:16 am

This is a little late, but I wanted let you know, I always have my petticoat over my corset, so it is between the corset and skirt.
and where the Spirit of the Lord is, there is liberty. 2 Cor 3:17b

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