Dress in Detial- Dress 5

Every week, with will post photos of a specific dress and discuss the various aspects on how the dress was built. A dress dissection, if you will.
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Dress in Detial- Dress 5

Postby Laura » Thu Apr 19, 2012 12:19 pm

I was wandering through the FIDM Museum and Galleries pages when I ran across this wonderful 1872 bustle day dress.
1872FIDMblackdaydress.jpg (10.53 KiB) Viewed 6593 times

The most striking thing to catch your eye in these early 1870's gowns is the contrast binding outlining all the elements of the gown. I have seen many gowns in creams and tans bond with reds and browns. There are many references to black dresses bond in yellow or red found in the magazine fashion plates, but few gowns are seen today.This gown is made of a nice black silk taffeta with embroidered pink flowers with the detail bound in a bright apple green silk. There are four separate pieces to the gown; day bodice, underskirt, over-skirt and belt with peplum.

The underskirt is typical for the time period. It appears to be a center front panel, two side gores on each side and at least two, possibly three, straight back panels. The deep ruffle at the hem is cut bias and sewn with small pleats or gathers. I love that the hem is also bound in the green silk. Above the ruffle is a bias flat band bound top and bottom in a solid black silk with the green silk stripe over the black. The triangle dags that enhance the elements of the gown are also bound in green and sewn facing upward. Notice how every other dag is cut with a pink flower upon it. In the center front two more sets of short ruffle, flat stripe and upward dags decorate the underskirt. These elements extend over the front gore seam and into the second gore of the skirt.

The over-skirt is split front panels and a puffed back split at the center seam. The edges are covered in a flat band and dags facing downward. The belt is a flat band with five rounded peplum pieces all edged in dags. One clue for dating the dress 1872 instead of earlier 1870-71 is due to the lack of a bow a the center back of the waist band. It is possible that this bow has been lost. However, according to fashion magazines all fashionable gowns from 1871 required a bow at the center back of the gown.

The bodice opens down the front with green matching buttons. The buttons end about three inches below the neck line allowing for a collar or neck pin. The buttons also end about two inches above the waist to give room for the belt. The decoration down the front of the bodice matches the rest of the gown with flat bias band and smaller dags. The sleeves are simple 3/4 coat sleeves with a ruffle and dags.

I hope you have enjoyed reviewing this gown. I do also hope you can see that reproducing these early bustle gowns may be time consuming but not impossible. Look at each element individually and you will be able to create this or others like it.

Have a great day!
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Re: Dress in Detial- Dress 5

Postby LidiaBest » Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:05 pm

This is one of the most beautiful dresses I've ever seen! I may be in love...

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