Finished Natural Form Dress

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kbtorre
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Joined: Fri May 17, 2013 8:02 am

Finished Natural Form Dress

Postby kbtorre » Sun May 10, 2015 10:26 am

Well, almost finished, I'm missing a couple of hooks and eyes.

I have a tailoring question. Between the bust and the shoulder, I always seem to have a bit too much fabric (there is looseness that creates a puffy silhouette around the neck and shoulders) . In this case I did a dart that is hidden by the lace to try to fix that, but normally, what would you do? Make the upper half of the bodice a smaller size? Just use darts?

Now to finish my daughter's.
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Heather
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Re: Finished Natural Form Dress

Postby Heather » Sun May 10, 2015 11:13 am

It could be two different issues, depending on what the excess fabric looks like. Well, actually, maybe three things.

If the extra is even across the front of the chest, gapping at the armhole and the neckline, then this means that you have too much length from bust to the top of the shoulder. Looking at the back view, I see a similar roll at the back of the shoulder blades. This means your back length is too long, from armpit level to nape of neck, and the extra fabric is pooling at the middle of the back. The fix is the same for both, take a fold in the pattern, Front and/or Back as needed, straight across the middle of the pattern between armpit and top of shoulder.

If the bodice fits fine at the center front/center back, but gradually gets roomier as you head towards the armhole, then you have the correct lengths overall, but the angle out to the point of the shoulder is off. In other words, there is too much room over the point of the shoulder, and the excess is sagging down to the armpit. On the Front piece, change the angle of the shoulder seam, taking the excess off at the point of the shoulder, but leaving the neck edge of the shoulder the same. This will fix both the front and back, with the same Front adjustment, by lifting up the back as you shorten the front. Again, in your back view, the roll at the shoulder blade seems deeper at the armhole than at the center back. You may need to do both the above adjustments to fine tune the upper shoulder. However, before you start lifting things up, make sure that the problem is not your arm pushing the fabric downwards at the armpit. If it is, then you may have a problem with the body length being too tall, and you need to shorten the waistline so the rest of the bodice can sit lower.

If the bodice fits great at the center front, and from the shoulder point to your bust point, and the only excess is like a dart from the bust point to the armhole, then this is a more serious fix, and require some significant pattern alterations. It is an easy enough fix, though, so don't panic. Somewhere on this board, I have illustrations how to fix this. Your body type doesn't suggest this might be needed, but if you do, I can search for the post and link it here.
kbtorre
Costume Afflicted
Posts: 36
Joined: Fri May 17, 2013 8:02 am

Re: Finished Natural Form Dress

Postby kbtorre » Sun May 10, 2015 11:22 am

Thanks! It gapes at the neckline tapering off to wards the armhole, so I'll try the first fix.
Heather
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Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 6:03 pm
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Re: Finished Natural Form Dress

Postby Heather » Sun May 10, 2015 10:46 pm

Yes, that sounds like it will help quite a bit. :D

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