Green Bustle Dress

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MaryGode
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 466
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:29 pm
Location: Eastern Iowa

Green Bustle Dress

Postby MaryGode » Mon Dec 05, 2011 4:26 pm

Or how to resemble an under-decorated Christmas tree:

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Made for the Victorian Christmas Walk in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri. Fabrics are silk noile, poly chiffon and poly organza. The skirt is the Parisian Trained Skirt. I got over-excited at first and had the skirt headed toward all chiffon, with none planned for the bodice. I took the lower front apron and used it on the back pouf and ruched the chiffon sides up to half the length. The side seams are decorated with ruched organza edged with black serged rolled edge.

I had intended to use the 1872 Vest Basque (I had cut that a while ago) but the skirt turned out so neat that I didn't want to cover it as much as the longer bodice hem would, so I cut the 1884 French Vest Bodice. The ensemble almost works as 1880s from the front, but the back is pure 1870s. Ah well, I wasn't going for accuracy, and almost nobody in the general public would ever be able to tell.

I particularly like how the collar turned out:

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I used a new technique for tailoring it: I interfaced and then sewed and turned the inner collar, after which I cut a piece of undercollar canvas to just fit the curved position of the collar. I slid that into the turned collar, basted the inner and outer collars together and applied them to the neck edge. Quick and easy!

The hat is a try at one I like in the La Mode Illustre book that's made of otter fur. My shiny poly fur will never be mistaken for real, but it is wonderfully silky stuff. I decorated it with a scarf of the organza, a few feathers dyed to match and a barrette I got a while ago because I like the color:

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It was supposed to be frigid on the day of the Walk so I made a capelet (Butterick 5265, super easy and quick!) with a fur collar to match the hat. It's cotton velvet lined in brown silk. The day turned out quite pleasant for a lady swathed in pounds of silk so I mostly carried it:

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My daughter, who has a firm sense of what matters in bustle dresses, took a short video. Thirteen seconds of swish and wiggle, click here!
Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society. ~MarkTwain
ljt
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 203
Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 10:55 am
Location: middle of nowhere, Nebraska

Re: Green Bustle Dress

Postby ljt » Mon Dec 05, 2011 4:55 pm

LOVE IT! really like the bodice details are great. I have that capelet pattern also but mine will be black cotton velvet with a dark green lining and old gold braid trim with a fur collar and muff. I have been thinking about it for awhile and am finally ready to start it.
MaryGode
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 466
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:29 pm
Location: Eastern Iowa

Re: Green Bustle Dress

Postby MaryGode » Mon Dec 05, 2011 5:27 pm

You will love making the capelet! It took at best two hours. I didn't add the lines of trim on the back, I couldn't find tassels in the right size and color.

Edit to add: I sewed the trim on the fabric and then lined it, but the weight of my braid was such that it caused the hem to always want to roll so the braid was at the edge. In the end I stitched it again, and it shows on the lining. Just something you might watch for.
Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society. ~MarkTwain
ljt
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 203
Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 10:55 am
Location: middle of nowhere, Nebraska

Re: Green Bustle Dress

Postby ljt » Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:21 pm

Thanks for the pointers. Can't wait to start it on Wednesday.
Miss Cindy
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Location: West Slope, Colorado

Re: Green Bustle Dress

Postby Miss Cindy » Tue Dec 06, 2011 12:06 pm

Love it! The video is quite fun! :D
and where the Spirit of the Lord is, there is liberty. 2 Cor 3:17b

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