Purple Pleated, and Blue Pleated, Dresses

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Birda
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Purple Pleated, and Blue Pleated, Dresses

Postby Birda » Fri May 13, 2011 8:46 am

As promised in my other post in this forum (my first one on this site), attached are photos of Ms. Emmaline and I at the Victorian Fashion Show held at the Gaslight Gathering event in San Diego.

Byrd and Emmaline.jpg
Byrd and Emmaline.jpg (36.26 KiB) Viewed 9724 times


She did incredible work on all those rows of pleats. Just beautiful !

Emmaline and Aurora Byrd 1.jpg
Emmaline and Aurora Byrd 1.jpg (37.7 KiB) Viewed 9724 times
Last edited by Birda on Fri May 13, 2011 10:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
radiocerk
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Re: Purple Pleated, and Blue Pleated, Dresses

Postby radiocerk » Fri May 13, 2011 10:02 am

So many beautiful pleats... What method did she use to make them?

Such wonderful dresses.
Birda
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Re: Purple Pleated, and Blue Pleated, Dresses

Postby Birda » Fri May 13, 2011 10:23 am

Thank you for the post.

Emmaline (Cindy in purple) used the fork method. If you have not done that before, it is catching each 1 inch piece of fabric with a fork and folding over as you sew, removing the fork before it gets sewn on. I saw a great instructional video of this.

As for myself (Birda in blue), the smaller collar pleats were done with the Perfect Pleater. The larger pleats on the skirt, apron and cuffs were done with an antique 1876 plaiter that I was blessed to pick up on Ebay. I could not have completed everything in time for the Fashion Show without it.
Iris
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Re: Purple Pleated, and Blue Pleated, Dresses

Postby Iris » Fri May 13, 2011 8:09 pm

How DO you figure out pleat length? I've never done anything that didn't hit the tops of my shoes, so these dresses look amazingly complicated to my eye. I'm just shy of 5-foot 4-inches, so modern clothes all need to be shortened. I just use a tape from my waist to the floor for my 19th C. dresses. I'm psyching up to do an 1880s dress in the fall, so any tips and strategies you would be willing to pass along would be very welcome.
Birda
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Re: Purple Pleated, and Blue Pleated, Dresses

Postby Birda » Sat May 14, 2011 12:40 pm

Thank you for posting. :) I would love to see pictures of your 19 C dresses. I am no expert by far. This was my first Victorian. I wrote a little more about this in my first post, “First Victorian Ensemble for Fashion Show” on May 12. The hardest thing for me to figure out was the skirt length, and the height of the pleats and the ruching because I was trying for a close version of my inspiration piece, fashion plate 46 in Godey's Ladys Book.
http://trulyvictorian.com/gallery2/main.php/v/public/Birda/Plate+46_+Nov+1872+ltr+e+Godeys+Full-Color+Fashion+Plates+1838-1880.jpg.html

I am 5’2” myself so I completely understand about the need to shorten everything. I believe Emmaline is a bit taller. We both used the same TV skirt pattern # 208 (trained skirt ensemble).

As to how to figure out pleat length, the posts in this forum help a bunch. I searched for “pleat” in the posts and found many suggestions. :idea: I then sketched the layout pattern on graph paper with different pleat/ruch lengths before finding a pattern that fit nicely underneath the apron, and measured & drew out the sash patterns as well. I also cut off about 10” on the modified apron. For my outfit, I was trying to best match my Godey fashion plate inspiration piece, so the pleats on the square collar, the apron, the skirt and the back sashes (which you can’t see in the pictures) are different lengths. The skirt and sashes contain alternating pleats, ruching and ribbon to try to match the fashion plate. (The plate description said velvet, but I used ribbon.)

The pleat lengths, and method used to make them, are:
Perfect Pleater collar 1.5” (1/2 wide); cuffs 3” (1/2 wide)
1876 plaiter apron 2” (1” wide); skirt 3.5” (1”wide); sashs 3” (1” wide)

The ruching on the skirt is 4” long; the ruching on the sashes that you can’t see are 2.5” long.

The measurements above are the finished length, not the cut length, which is 1.5” longer to include a .5” hem on top (ribbon sewn over the top) and a 1” hem on the edge that shows (.25 turn, .75 hem).

Also, I found that skirt length makes a difference when pleats and ruching are sewn on from the bottom up. :idea: I had not worn a bustle before, so I put the undergarments on a mannequin, set my height plus heel, and took the front waist to floor measurement. If you look at the pictures, you will notice that the skirt front does drag at bit. That is because the 3” blue heeled shoes I ordered on eBay did not fit when they arrived, so I was only in 1.5” heels.

I also found something at my local Singer store that I now can’t sew without. :D Before cutting the silk fashion fabric, I made mock-ups out of “Sewable Swedish Tracing Paper”. You draw your pattern on it and then sew it up to make your mock-up – really cool stuff.

I hope this helps a bit. Can’t wait to read about your creations and see pictures. Apologies for the long reply. My writing tends to be a bit wordy.
Lioness
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Re: Purple Pleated, and Blue Pleated, Dresses

Postby Lioness » Thu Jun 02, 2011 2:27 am

I ADORE both dresses. I have occasion to see Ms. Emmaline's in person. She is a perfectly LOVELY woman and I cherish her friendship.
Lioness
Sujean
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Re: Purple Pleated, and Blue Pleated, Dresses

Postby Sujean » Fri Jun 03, 2011 4:48 pm

Wow! So amazing! Do you have more & detailed pictures posted anywhere?
The colors are so delightful and the pleats, the pleats!
Birda
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Re: Purple Pleated, and Blue Pleated, Dresses

Postby Birda » Sun Jun 05, 2011 3:35 pm

Sujean:
A few more photos, and full videos of the entire Fashion Show, can be found on the pages / links below.

This has pictures from all the entries in the Fashion Show, see pages 61 to 65.
http://jerryabuan.zenfolio.com/p143952334

This has pictures of Emmaline at Wild Wild West Con, see pages 47 to 49.
http://jerryabuan.zenfolio.com/p149843780

And this is the link to Part 1 of 2 of the Fashion Show. Emmaline was the MC. My small part starts at 12 minutes. All of the dresses are absolutely gorgeous.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlNOIzBSHHU

This is the start of my album on this site.
http://trulyvictorian.com/gallery2/main.php/v/public/Birda/
Vanessa
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Re: Purple Pleated, and Blue Pleated, Dresses

Postby Vanessa » Wed Jun 08, 2011 7:32 am

LOVE love love those two dresses. They look amazing next to each other, as well!
The untold want, by life and land ne'er granted,
Now, Voyager, sail thou forth, to seek and find.
Sujean
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Re: Purple Pleated, and Blue Pleated, Dresses

Postby Sujean » Thu Jun 09, 2011 10:30 pm

Birda,

Thanks! I am in total sensory overload looking at the pictures. What fun!
Emmaline
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Re: Purple Pleated, and Blue Pleated, Dresses

Postby Emmaline » Sat Jun 18, 2011 5:38 pm

Gosh, I hadn't been on this forum for a while, and look at all the nice compliments! Birda's dress is absolutely beautiful! We had a good time. That was my first attempt to MC a fashion show, and boy was I nervous! But all the ladies in the show were real pros, and after about 10 minutes I felt much more relaxed. I will be doing the show again next year, and have already started planning the theme.

Birda, will you be in it next year? You are awesome!

Em
Birda
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Re: Purple Pleated, and Blue Pleated, Dresses

Postby Birda » Sat Jun 25, 2011 9:08 am

@Em, You did an amazing job putting the Fashion Show together ... creating the theme; gathering up all the ladies/entries; decorating the tables; not to mention the Show itself. Major Kudos and Thanks for your incredible work and talent. WOW does not begin to cover it.

Asking everyone to create their garment(s) based on their favorite fashion plate, Victorian photograph or painting (1837 through 1901) provided a wide variance of style, fabric, and color that I believe the attendees truly enjoyed, as can be seen in the pictures & videos of the Show.

I would love to do another Fashion Show again next year. It was tons of fun, and I am honored to have met you, and Shelley (Kansas Mercantile) and Jennifer (Historical Sewing) and all the other talented seamstresses who created such amazing historical garments.

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