newbie to fitting historical fashion - TV403

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goldcountrymom
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newbie to fitting historical fashion - TV403

Postby goldcountrymom » Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:48 pm

Hi Heather (and all),

I've made my first mockup of TV403 and have some fit issues that I am unsure how to correct because I am a total newbie and not a super experienced sewer. The two main problems seem to be there is too much fabric above the bust and the sleeves have too much fabric around the shoulders.

My daughter's measurements are:
Bust: 36 1/2" size E
Back: 13" size C
waist : 25.5"
hips: 35.5"
around the arm: 15.5" both sides size A
arm length : 17

The length of the bodice and sleeves seem right on.

I took in the front darts and took in the seam at the top of the shoulder 1/2 inch on the front which alleviated some of the extra fabric but there is still several inches extra between the front closure and the armpit, i.e. baggy on the chest above the bust.

The mockup armhole measures about 17.5 inches around while her armhole measurement was 15.5 and the sleeve head seems to be about 22 inches around so a really big difference there.

Additional questions:
Where should the top point of the darts fall? Below the bust or at the apex? I did not know if I should lower them since I removed 1/2 inch at the shoulder?

Where should the outer seam of the sleeve fall and which way is best to remove some of the extra sleeve material at the shoulder?

I will try to edit this to attach some pictures if I can successfully get them from my phone.

Thanks in advance,

Lauren
goldcountrymom
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Re: newbie to fitting historical fashion - TV403

Postby goldcountrymom » Mon Feb 05, 2018 10:31 pm

Here are some pics. Sorry about the size and quality.
Attachments
image1.jpg
image1.jpg (205.15 KiB) Viewed 2795 times
front.jpg
front.jpg (215.81 KiB) Viewed 2795 times
back.jpg
back.jpg (210.64 KiB) Viewed 2795 times
Heather
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Re: newbie to fitting historical fashion - TV403

Postby Heather » Tue Feb 06, 2018 6:28 pm

Looks like it is just too big around the bust for her. It looks like there is plenty of room at the front of the armhole, so I would take the extra width out of the Front at the side seam. Looks like you have maybe 3/4" on each side that you can take out? This will help with both of the issues: over all too wide across the bust, armhole too large. You can take out as much under the arm as you need, until the front of the armhole hits her arm. If you still have more you need to take out, I think you can take it out at the center front seam. Ideally, you should have 1" of ease across the bust.

One you make the overall bust smaller, you will need to let the darts out again, as this will shrink the waist also. The tip of the darts should come in at just below the apex of the bust. Shape them as needed to get a smooth line.

The above would be the quickest fix. However, if you want a more in depth fix, then I am seeing a few issues.

The back looks a bit wide for her body. She has a very small frame so I would go down to a smaller back size. I think there is a bit of extra length, so the smaller back size will help with that also. If you go down to a size A back, then I think that will also solve the front-to-big issue.

In the side view photo, it looks like the bottom of the armhole is well below her armpit. Try lifting the whole mockup up at the shoulders, until the armhole fits snug in her armpit. Than take out anything extra between the armpit and the neckline, as needed. The back view shows the back of the armpit crumpling a bit, and I think that is because the back is too wide and the arm is pushing the back of the armhole down as it curves under. The smaller back size should move the armhole father back and keep this from happening, allowing you to lift a properly located armhole upwards. When you take out fabric between neck and armhole, take a tuck straight across the shoulder, at front and back as needed to get a smooth line. This will also shrink the armhole to get it closer to the size she needs.

Once you have lifted up the main body section, check the lengths to her waistline again. You may need to lengthen between armhole and waistline, after shortening armhole to neck.
goldcountrymom
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Re: newbie to fitting historical fashion - TV403

Postby goldcountrymom » Fri Feb 09, 2018 9:09 pm

Thank you so much for input. I have remade the mock up with the size A back. What do you think?
Seems to fit a lot better but maybe a little too tight across the bust for comfort. Should I lengthen it? I think I will try the size B back also and see what that is like.

back size A.jpg
back size A.jpg (184.92 KiB) Viewed 2780 times


SIDE W BACK SIZE a.jpg
SIDE W BACK SIZE a.jpg (153.74 KiB) Viewed 2780 times


FRONT BACK SIZE A.jpg
FRONT BACK SIZE A.jpg (177.55 KiB) Viewed 2780 times
Heather
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Re: newbie to fitting historical fashion - TV403

Postby Heather » Sat Feb 10, 2018 12:12 am

That looks much better. I can see where the size B would give a bit more room. I'm used to people wearing corsets, so the tighter fit is a good thing.

I think your lengths are looking fine, though it can be hard to tell in photos. One thing I am seeing is the side view, there are stress lines that are angling upwards from side waist up to the bust point. That tells me that the front is lifting up a bit. I don't see that in the other photos, so not sure if that is caused by the darts or other some thing. But these stress lines should be level. If this is how it is wanting to sit, then you will want to lengthen the upper part of the Front shoulder, at the neck. This will let the center front drop downwards a bit.
goldcountrymom
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Re: newbie to fitting historical fashion - TV403

Postby goldcountrymom » Sat Feb 10, 2018 5:00 pm

OK, I feel like I am getting closer but there are still some weird areas.

This is with a back size B and taking in the shoulder seam 1/2 inch. At first I didn't take in the shoulder seam but then the back was more rumply near the shoulders. I sewed in the darts so we could see if the side rumples were an artifact of pinning but - I didn't realize the sun was shining in the window so much. Also she could not sit still and has a foot injury so wasn't putting equal weight on each leg, which might account for some rumples at the shoulder in the front view and off kilter tilt. I think the center seam near the neck can be taken in about half inch to 3/4 inch; it was hard to pin to make it look smooth.

I attached the sleeves to see how that would work and had to take a 5/8+ inch seam allowance to get the sleeve to sit at the edge of her shoulder. On one sleeve, I took two darts on almost the full length of the underside to make it more narrow to fit the armhole and on the other I just gathered it on the underside just at the seam. I am not sure which looks better (or would once I adjust the pattern) but she has to dance in this garment and I am worried about how it will look with arms raised so I didn't want to take it in in the shoulder too much either. There's about 2 inches difference between the armhole and the sleeve head.


side back B.jpg
side back B.jpg (170.44 KiB) Viewed 2773 times

front back size B.jpg
front back size B.jpg (177.01 KiB) Viewed 2773 times

back size B.jpg
back size B.jpg (195.38 KiB) Viewed 2773 times
goldcountrymom
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Re: newbie to fitting historical fashion - TV403

Postby goldcountrymom » Sat Feb 10, 2018 5:10 pm

Other side view with better lighting
side back size B #2.jpg
side back size B #2.jpg (170.7 KiB) Viewed 2773 times
Heather
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Re: newbie to fitting historical fashion - TV403

Postby Heather » Sun Feb 11, 2018 8:38 am

2" extra at the sleeve is about right. You want to ease that extra in over the top of the shoulder. This will let the sleeve curve in a bit over the top of the shoulder and lay smoothly off the shoulder with a round shape, rather then a stressed flat shape. Sleeves that look flat over the top are never totally flat. You need at least 1" of ease over the top to look right.

The height at the back of the neck looks a bit tall. The collar seam should rest just at the large bone at the nape of the neck. Cut down the neckline as needed to reshape the neckline after taking in the shoulder seam. Or instead of taking in the shoulder seam, take out a fold in the upper back to drop the neckline edge to where it needs to be. This will pull the shoulder seam down the back a bit, which is good. Either way.

Looking good!
goldcountrymom
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Re: newbie to fitting historical fashion - TV403

Postby goldcountrymom » Sun Feb 11, 2018 10:17 am

Thanks so much! I really appreciate the ability to have your help on this. <3

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