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Help! My waist size is bigger than my hip and bust sizes

Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 8:51 pm
by heidihussainabadi
Hi, I am new to using TV patterns and am confused with the sizing of bodices. It all makes sense with "adjusted front and back" pieces, until you factor in that my waist measurement makes me a size J (or I with the corset superlaced) but my adjusted front and back measurements are a size G. I am afraid to cut out any pattern pieces at size G in case they then won't fit round the waist.

However, if I trace and cut everything as size J, I'm afraid the top part of any bodice patterns will be out.

Please can you tell me which way to go here? I've got 5 different bodice patterns here to figure out and can't start till I resolve this issue.


Re: Help! My waist size is bigger than my hip and bust sizes

Posted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 8:20 pm
by Heather
There is a great way to add fabric to the waistline without adding it to the bust. This will work with any regular bodices, but is harder to do with longer garments like polonaises and princess dresses.

If you look at the center front line of most bodice patterns, you will notice an "S" curve shape to it. Starting at the neckeline, it angles out over the point of the bust, and then curves back in to the waistline and then down to the he m. To add fabric, get a ruler and line it up along the line from neck to just above the point of the bust. Then draw along the ruler from the point of bust down to the hem. This usually adds about 2" by the time you get to the waistline. You will need to shift the darts more angled to the front and redraw the hem line points. But this will give you an added 4" total to the waist measure. Of course, let out the darts first, to see if that alone will give you the extra you need. But if you still need more, then go with this method.

As an FYI, the TV460 and TV420 come in a B Size Group that has this modification built into the pattern already. It might help to get one of these patterns, and then use it to combine with other patterns you have to make the adjustments you need.

I hope this helps.

Re: Help! My waist size is bigger than my hip and bust sizes

Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 4:55 am
by heidihussainabadi
Thanks Heather :-) My first bodice is the 410 polonaise - I'm hoping maybe letting out the darts will do. I'll do a mockup out of an old sheet and see how it goes.