TV442 fitting

Find out how to get that dang thing to fit.
hailstop
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TV442 fitting

Postby hailstop » Fri Feb 24, 2017 12:34 pm

A friend of mine did my previous gown using the TV442 pattern, and now I'm doing one myself.

With that gown, I found that it's just a bit too short and probably needs another inch below the waist to better cover the skirt waistband. I'm not entirely sure where to lengthen though, as the instructions say only to lengthen the back and side pieces if necessary.

Additionally I'd like the point on front to be a bit longer...is it as simple as just adding a bit to the point?

Additionally I had a lot of problem with arm movement in that gown, namely I couldn't raise my arms very high or across the body. Made putting on gloves to be a bit of a challenge. :-)

Thanks!
Heather
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Re: TV442 fitting

Postby Heather » Fri Feb 24, 2017 2:58 pm

It sounds like the armhole is close at the front of the arm, which is keeping you from moving your arms forwards. Lifting overall will be hard due to the off-shoulder line. You can try trimming the armhole forwards a bit and see if that helps.

Lengthen the bodice to the waist at just above the waistline across all the pieces. You can also add hooks and eyes to attach the skirt to the bodice, to keep them from separating.

I hope this helps.
hailstop
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Re: TV442 fitting

Postby hailstop » Fri Feb 24, 2017 3:40 pm

It does, thank you!
hailstop
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 146
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2005 3:45 pm

Re: TV442 fitting

Postby hailstop » Mon Dec 04, 2017 8:05 pm

I put together a mockup and tried it on (and realized immediately some tweaks I needed to do like...actually sew up two of the waist darts).

The question I have right now is that I noticed the shoulder seam doesn't lie on the top of my shoulder but about maybe, 1.5 inches towards the back? Is that normal? Or should I add that amount to the back piece and take it from the front?
Heather
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Re: TV442 fitting

Postby Heather » Wed Dec 06, 2017 1:29 pm

Yes, this is normal. D not move the seam. In the Victorian Era, the should shoulder seam is behind the shoulder, not on top. :)
hailstop
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Re: TV442 fitting

Postby hailstop » Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:20 pm

Progress!!!

:bounce:

Okay, so I did my muslin, adjusted the armholes, and have sewed up the fashion fabric pieces and gave it a test fit (no pics unfortunately).

Now, I did mess up the front pieces slightly because I accidentally flatlined the two front pieces the same way.

Twice.

:bang:

So I tried really hard to seam rip them apart and serge it again trying to minimize the amount of fabric I lost, and I think for the most part it worked out well.

However, it kinda feels like there is still a bit of a fitting issue. First, the armholes were tight...but I haven't clipped them (apparently I'm not supposed to clip the seam allowance if I'm adding sleeves?) so I'm sure that's part of it. Additionally, it looked like there was a bit of stress going from the bust to the shoulder, which I think means it's a bit too tight there? So I think I should let out the shoulder seam a bit?

Also, I'm not entirely certain I sewed the front seam correctly, specifically at the top. I wasn't sure if I was supposed to just go straight up and the seam would intersect the edge of the fabric as it curved, or if I was supposed to curve with the fabric slightly and meet the edge of the fabric at the line. It kinda looked like it was a bit 'full' at the top of the side seam.

Hopefully this made sense without pics (getting the wife to help me when she wants to go to bed, I figured I was pushing it going for pics). :P

Thanks in advance.
Heather
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Re: TV442 fitting

Postby Heather » Tue Feb 20, 2018 2:27 pm

Not exactly what you mean with the front seam. But I think you are asking about keeping the center front seam allowance 1/2" all the way to the top, which is what you want to do? However, you can also make the allowance wider as you go above the bust point to reduce any gapping at the neckline. Does this answer your question?

The armhole should fit snug with the seam allowance laying smoothly and not binding. If you see the fabric being pushed by your arm, then you want to trim that area away. I usually do not need to clip the armhole seams, though I have trimmed them back a bit after sewing in the sleeves. Before you change anything, decide if the issue is part of the shoulder being too short, as letting out the shoulder a bit may change the armhole fit. Without seeing a pic, I really can't say what you should do there. It sounds like you might need a little bit more room. Not to much, but you want enough room to be able to move a little.
hailstop
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Re: TV442 fitting

Postby hailstop » Tue Feb 20, 2018 7:18 pm

Pics!

IMG_2625.JPG
IMG_2625.JPG (354.38 KiB) Viewed 2625 times
IMG_2626.JPG
IMG_2626.JPG (318.44 KiB) Viewed 2625 times
Heather
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Re: TV442 fitting

Postby Heather » Wed Feb 21, 2018 9:50 am

The shoulders look good, so I don't think you need to change anything there. It think the issue is that it is just a tad bit big across the bust. I think you can take in the center front curve a bit, making it more of a straight line. The rest looks great!

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