TV 460 question

Find out how to get that dang thing to fit.
Quallus
Inquiring Mind
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Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2015 2:06 pm

TV 460 question

Postby Quallus » Thu Mar 03, 2016 11:36 am

Hi Heather,
Where does the shoulder seam for the Cuirass Bodice start and approximately where does the seam need to sit, I. e. directly on the shoulder or just a bit behind?
Been trying to have this thing hang right but not exactly sure as to shoulder seam placement. :bang:
Thanks for your help.

Karin
Heather
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Re: TV 460 question

Postby Heather » Thu Mar 03, 2016 11:46 am

The shoulder seam should sit well behind the top of the shoulder. The exact position is rather vague, and can be higher or lower in the back depending of your personal body shape. But it should not be at the top of the shoulder.
Quallus
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 203
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2015 2:06 pm

Re: TV 460 question

Postby Quallus » Thu Mar 03, 2016 1:14 pm

Thank you. That helps. One more question though. Does the seam start by the ear or slightly behind?
Sorry for the 50 questions.
Heather
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Re: TV 460 question

Postby Heather » Thu Mar 03, 2016 3:03 pm

Yes, I think just right behind the ear. Though really, that depends on your posture, also.

The more important thing to look at is the height at the nape of the neck. The top edge of the neckline should reach to 1/2" (the seam allowance width) above the nape of the neck. If the fabric is climbing up the back of the neck, then the back length is too long, and if the neckline is below the nape of the neck, then the back length is too short.

Once you have the back neck exactly where is should be, then you want to look at the front length. If the front shoulder are is loose from neck to point of bust, then the front shoulder length is too long. If the center front of the bodice is pulling upwards, then the front shoulder length is too short. You want to adjust the front length, between the neckline and the bust point, to get a good fit.

The only time you need to change the shoulder line itself, is if the neck edge fits well in both front and back, but the armhole edge is either too loose or too tight. The fix here is to adjust the angle of the front shoulder seam line, from the existing neck edge to either raising or lowering the armhole shoulder point as needed.

Beyond these fixes, there is virtually no reason to make any changes to the shoulder seam placement. It will end up where it needs to be, when all the rest fits properly.
Quallus
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 203
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2015 2:06 pm

Re: TV 460 question

Postby Quallus » Thu Mar 03, 2016 4:11 pm

Thank you so very much for taking the time to answer the questions.
Had made 2 bodices previously but my size changed and on top of that I had never added on enough back length after making other adjustments. Oi and all of a sudden nothing wanted to come together anymore and I just got myself confused on the shoulder seam placement. Got it fixed and it all came together nicely and the sleeve fits perfectly. Hew.
Thank you again for all the help. It makes all the difference.
:D

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