TV442 Fitting Problems

Find out how to get that dang thing to fit.
sunndoesntknow
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TV442 Fitting Problems

Postby sunndoesntknow » Sun Mar 22, 2015 12:28 pm

I'm attempting to make the 1860's Ballgown Bodice for an upcoming Civil War reenactment event and I'm having some trouble getting the fit down. A big problem I'm having is that there is a 10 inch difference between my waist and my bust measurements, and my bust is quite high due to the shaping of my corset, so the darts and center front are all wrong. I could barely pin the top front of the bodice closed at all!

My corseted waist measurement is 42", bust measurement is 52".

I apologize in advance for the poor quality of my photography. My roommate is at work and I don't have a good place to put the camera. I'll try to get some better shots later.

ETA: Arrrrrrrgh! The links to my pictures are not working correctly.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... 079e97f15b

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... f0d0ac0878

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... 1bdeb28b07

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... e1959ae5ae

I'm also a little concerned about getting the sleeve over my large upper arms. The armscye fits around my arm well, but it is difficult to pull on and I can't imagine adding a tightly lined sleeve to that. What options do I have in this regard?
Heather
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Re: TV442 Fitting Problems

Postby Heather » Sun Mar 22, 2015 8:58 pm

It doesn't look that bad. I looks like you have it pinned on pretty tightly. I suspect that you are larger than 52" at the bust. If you haven't seen it yet, you might want to take a look at our measuring guidelines at http://www.trulyvictorian.net/blog1/blog2.php/taking-your-measurements

The darts can be adjusted to suit your needs, just alter the shape or lengths as needed. For the center front, if you don't need the top edge to curve, then just keep it as a straight line above the bust, or curve it in as much or as little as is needed.

For the sleeves, remember, you have seam allowances on the armhole, so the final armhole will be larger if you clip the seams. If you need more room over the arm, then you can make the bottom edge of the sleeve lining wider, rather than tapering away. Just square the seam and bottom edge.
sunndoesntknow
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Re: TV442 Fitting Problems

Postby sunndoesntknow » Sun Mar 22, 2015 10:22 pm

I forgot to mention that I cut out the size K based on my waist measurements, but the bust on that size is only 50". Should I cut out the next size bigger front with the 52" bust and just take the darts in more?
Heather
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Re: TV442 Fitting Problems

Postby Heather » Mon Mar 23, 2015 8:25 am

You want to cut the size based on your bust measure. So you should be cutting a size L for a 52" bust. Then take in the darts as needed to fit your waist.
sunndoesntknow
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Re: TV442 Fitting Problems

Postby sunndoesntknow » Tue Mar 24, 2015 11:38 pm

Should all of the excess width at the waist come from the outer dart only or should I spread it to all 4 darts evenly?
sunndoesntknow
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Re: TV442 Fitting Problems

Postby sunndoesntknow » Wed Mar 25, 2015 6:49 am

I cut out the bigger front and adjusted the outer dart by 1 inch on each side for a 2 inch total reduction at the waist. I like 99 percent of the fit now, except for this weird baggy-ness at the center bust just below the neckline. Is there a way to adjust the center seam to get rid of that part? Or will it be fixed when there's boning in place?

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Heather
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Re: TV442 Fitting Problems

Postby Heather » Wed Mar 25, 2015 7:27 am

You should adjust all 4 darts to make the waist smaller. I think this will help with the front bagginess.
sunndoesntknow
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Re: TV442 Fitting Problems

Postby sunndoesntknow » Thu Mar 26, 2015 12:11 pm

Heather, this is less related to the fit and more clarification of the directions. When I am sewing the lining to the bodice with the right sides together, the directions say I'm supposed to sew all around the neckline, center back, and bottom, then pull inside out from the armhole. Then it says for laced closure, I'm supposed to "insert a bone on both sides of the center back and top stitch the bone down". How can I insert the bone if the lining and bodice are completely attached? Also, does the whole thing really turn through the armhole, even with bones on the seams? Color me skeptical, haha. :? Help?

ETA: I also meant to ask, what would be the best way to add piping to the neckline, bottom edge, and center back? I want to be able to change out berthes for different styles, so the neckline needs to be finished independently.
Last edited by sunndoesntknow on Thu Mar 26, 2015 12:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Heather
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Re: TV442 Fitting Problems

Postby Heather » Thu Mar 26, 2015 12:19 pm

Yep, it will all turn through the armhole, not to worry. As for the center back, I think it will be easier to place the bone into the center back edge after it is turned. Just reach in through the armhole, and place it along the seam, and then top stitch down the edge to hold it in place. I have tried to turn the bodice after sewing a stay into the seam allowance, and you can't flip the point with stay in it.

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