Postby Heather » Fri Jan 16, 2015 10:36 am
To make sure your have it sitting properly to start, you want to place the armhole at the correct level high up under your arm. I am not sure where that is on your dress form, so I can't really help with that. Once you have that level established, then you want to smooth up over the shoulder and down to the waist, to get the correct lengths everywhere.
I would go up to the shoulder and fit that part first. Place the back of the neckline at the nape of the neck, with the 1/2" seam allowance above the nape. if there is any extra material between the armhole level and the nape of the neck, take a fold out in the middle of the upper back, even all the way across, to take out the extra. Same with the front, keeping the armhole/bust level the same, fold out any extra over the top of the shoulder in the middle of the upper front piece. You should be fitting the neck edge smoothly over your shoulder, from point of bust to nape of neck. If you need adjustments over the point of the shoulder to match your shoulder angle, then make adjustments to the shoulder seam, after the overall length has been corrected. This should solve most of the upper torso problems.
The waist line of this bodice should sit right at your natural waist, with 1/2" seam allowance below the waistline. The rounded point should dip below the waistline. Based on what I am seeing in your pics, you will need to take out quite a bit. I think the easiest way to do that is to just cut off the bottom of the back and side back to the correct length. You won't need to mess with redrawing the curve. But for the front and side piece, I think you can take a tuck in the middle of the body and fold out any extra. This way you won't need to redraw the rounded point or anything.
I hope this helps.