Fit help please - 455 Romantic Dress

Find out how to get that dang thing to fit.
gretagretchen
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Fit help please - 455 Romantic Dress

Postby gretagretchen » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:31 pm

I'm not sure how to fix the fit on this. I cut size H for the side and back but size I for the front. I did this because it often is what is needed on my other bodices. I think maybe the size I front is too big? beyond that I have way too much real estate at the neckline. I also wonder if I need to cut the neckline lower, especially in the back. This is for a ball gown so it can be a little risqué.

I hope these images are good enough to see….

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photo 3.JPG (164.1 KiB) Viewed 2546 times
Aka Wilhelmina Frame, Editrix de Mode, steampunkchronicle.com
Heather
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Re: Fit help please - 455 Romantic Dress

Postby Heather » Wed Feb 05, 2014 10:09 pm

First thing you need to do is pin the center front the same 1" all the way from neck to waist. Then take the darts in to fit from waist to bust. Take the darts taller at the same time, by about 1 1/2". The darts should reach up to just below the widest part of your bust.

It looks to me like the front straps are little too long. The back is sagging a little. Shorten the front straps, to hold up the back and fit better over the arm. If you still have gapping at the neckline, take in the center front from the bust up to the neckline as needed to make it lay smooth.

1830s had very conservative necklines, even for evening wear. The high back will help hold the shoulder straps from falling down, especially with heavy sleeves.

Oh, I just realized, this bodice has a center back closure. So you should have sewn the center back seam with a 1" seam allowance, and then the front should only have 1/2" allowance. Unless you changed that already for a front closure instead.
gretagretchen
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 228
Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:08 pm

Re: Fit help please - 455 Romantic Dress

Postby gretagretchen » Sat Feb 08, 2014 11:56 pm

OK I did as you recommended. I feel pretty good about the front. I extended the darts, took them in and curved the top of the center seam. I feel like this neckline is still too conservative for my tastes but it will get a little lower I guess when there is no seam allowance. is the shoulder in the correct place? Do I need to trim a bit from the lower part of the armhole?

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I am more confused about the back. I'm getting a bit of muffin top from my corset. I think just loosening the corset will help that but also having a flatlined bodice and boning would help also. But the top of the back was sitting too far away from my back so I took the top of the "back seam" in but now it's worse. How do I fix that? maybe take up the back shoulder as well and the front?

First Photo:

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Second Photo too tight:

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1907721_10203169240936707_867607190_o.jpg (109.85 KiB) Viewed 2513 times
Aka Wilhelmina Frame, Editrix de Mode, steampunkchronicle.com
Heather
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Re: Fit help please - 455 Romantic Dress

Postby Heather » Sun Feb 09, 2014 10:28 am

The front looks great. The back looks good, too. The muffin top can't be solved with your bodice. It is the corset being pulled too tight at the top. Loosen the top of your corset and see if that helps. If the lacing won't stay loose at the top over time. Then split your lacing, and have the upper 4-6 holes on a separate lace. This will let you control the tension for each of the zones independently.

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