Fitting TV442

[melemolly]

Hello all,

Currently making my first Victorian dress with TV442. This is my first mockup, I see some changes that I need to make but wanted to check in with the experts and make sure I'm on track, and I haven't missed anything.

I cut E for the back and side back, D for the front (and the sleeve will be B).

The only change I made to the pattern so far was to take 2 inches out at the waist, since I'm both incredibly short (4'11") and short waisted.

Things I see:
1) After taking the waist up, somehow the back-side seam is shorter than the front side. I'm going to add on to the back side so they match up. I may also add a bit length to the side overall, as I may have taken out too much?
2) It won't close at the top. I need to add to the top so it will close (or maybe recutting in size E would be better?)
3) I believe this pattern has seam allowance everywhere, which I didn't remove from the top, bottom, or armscye. The top is already sitting much lower than my chemise, so I think it needs to be ~2 inches higher?
4) I already ripped a bit in the armscye when leaning forward, but maybe that just ripped into the seam allowance
5) The darts aren't anywhere near the darts on the pattern, but whatevs, darts can go wherever they work. Mine seem to start very low, but I suppose that makes sense if I am shortwaisted.

My one annoying caveat - I am making this for the vintage dance group I am in where we do some fairly vigorous dancing. I need some degree of arm movement, as my arm will be going over my head for turning in a waltz.

You can see a bunch of photos (with some bonus cat sitting on fabric) here: https://picasaweb.google.com/1164702868 ... sbbN6O6_dQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So, what are your thoughts? Any other changes you think my next mockup needs? Thanks for reading this far!

[Heather]

I can see a few things going on that may change how everything fits. In the back view, it looks like the whole back is sitting too low, and sagging at the center back. The waistline at the center back is well below you waistline. The sides seam fine, once you even out the lengths there. (make the back the length of the front.) So it just needs to pivot the center back upwards, if that makes sense. Lift the back up and shorten the shoulder straps on the front even more to keep the back up there. The shoulder straps should be sitting just on the point of the shoulder. Pulling the back up should help put the straps in the proper place as well. Right now, the straps are full off your shoulder. In fact, now I look at the back closer, I think your back width is a little wide. I would go down one size to the D for the back. The strap placement on the right shoulder is about right, but the left shoulder is falling off.

It looks like the back dipping down is also pulling the front upwards. Pull the front down, and hike the back upwards. This is also part of the issue with the gaping at the center front. Once you pull the front down, the gap should get smaller. However, getting a proper bust measure is critical, and many people cheat themselves out of needed fabric by measuring poorly. It looks to me like you need a larger size front than you have now. If you haven't seen it yet, you might want to take a look at my blog on taking your measures, at http://www.trulyvictorian.net/blog1/blog2.php/taking-your-measurements If you go down to the size D for the back, you might need 2 sizes larger in the front. Remeasure your full bust, and try the math again, I think.

I know a lot of people leave the dart out for fitting, and pin them in during the fitting. But I find that way more difficult and problematic to get the darts in correctly. Especially as the darts are usually on the bias. I always sew the darts in before the fitting. Then it is just super easy to make the darts larger/smaller or taller/shorter and not loose the original placement. Also, leaving the darts out will make it harder to place the mockup on the body correctly, as is happening here.

Your corset and chemise are fairly high, so yes, you may need to add some to the neckline. Just draw in above the neckline as much as you need. At the center front edge, straighten out the inwards curve as you go higher. In other words, do not continue the same curved line. Instead raise the front corner straight upwards from is current location.

Oh, one last thing. No, you will not be able to lift your arms above your head. Not happening, with an off shoulder gown. Once you get the placement of the straps up where they should be, this will help some. (the lower the shoulder strap, the more restricted your movement.) But do not expect to lift your arms up. Instead, bend your knees and duck as you turn under your partners arm. And for the "bridge" manouver, you will have to drop your partners hands and pantomime the action. I have done a lot of Victorian Ballroom Dancing myself, and this is just one the issues that you have to learn to work around.

[melemolly]

Thank you for such a detailed answer! I'll get to work

[melemolly]

I'm really pleased with how this is looking!

I did cut a smaller back and a larger front, which instantly look better. Bunch of other small changes in here as well.

Other notes:
- The left (my left) has seam allowance removed from the armscye and top, while the right does not, so concentrate on the left side

- The top is rather gappy. I think a large part of this comes from the fact that my corset is too big on top and also gaps away from my chest quite a bit, but alas no time to make a new one before I need the dress.
My plan is to do one of the following:
1) Take a small dart on each side of the neckline, since it will be covered by the bertha
2) Put a drawstring in the top
3) Do nothing and let the bertha hide this until I have a chance to make a corset.

The strap could also stand to be taken in by 1/4" or so.

Anything else you would recommend fixing before getting to fashion fabric?

Photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/1164702868 ... inalMockup

Thanks so much for your detailed replies - this is way above and beyond for customer service, on top of really well-made and easy to understand patterns. Will definitely be recommending TV patterns to everyone I know

[Heather]

Oh no, I'm getting a error page from the link.

[melemolly]

Odd, the settings should have been right. I made them more open, try again?

[Heather]

Maybe try reposting the link? Getting a 500 error.

[melemolly]

So weird, the link works for me!

I moved the photos to the album linked in the first post, so hopefully that link still works: https://picasaweb.google.com/1164702868 ... sbbN6O6_dQ

They all have "mockup 3" in the caption, to sort them out from the first mockup pictures. Although now that I look at the photos, there is no good one that shows the front straight-on, I'll have to pop the corset on and retake that.

[Heather]

Well, now that is odd, as the original link is not working either, now. The same 500 error. Have you tried just attaching the files to this forum?

[melemolly]

Yeah I'm just going to do that now :p

Aaand photo size too big to attach. Let's try this:

[Heather]

For the neckline, pinch in the center front seam above the point of the bust. This should take in quite a bit of the gapping you are seeing.

Just a quick note on the darts and center front seem in general. It looks like you only adjusted the front set of darts. It would be better if you split the adjustment to all 4 darts. Also, if looks like you took in the center front seam below the bust. This should be shifted into the darts as well, and the center front seam left alone (except for above the bust, as mentioned above.) If you are fitting this over a hoop, you should try the mockup on over the hoop before you lean down the front point too much.

I think the back looks great. The front at the armhole looks like it coudl be trimmed forwards a bit, so it is not binding on the front of your arm.