The collar for the 1885 dress

Find out how to get that dang thing to fit.
Helena
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The collar for the 1885 dress

Postby Helena » Thu Aug 29, 2013 4:29 am

Hello again. :)

I am now at the collar stage.
I want to make it look like the extant dress here.
http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/se ... fullscreen" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have made the collar pattern by draping, and then adjusted it minor things.

Here are my photos of the mockup collar as well as the pattern itself.

I need other sets of eyes. I realize this should be in the "What do you all think", hehe. :)

Thank you for all kind of inputs.
Attachments
collarpattern.jpg
collarpattern.jpg (23.57 KiB) Viewed 4955 times
collarback.jpg
collarback.jpg (150.15 KiB) Viewed 4955 times
collarfront.jpg
collarfront.jpg (165.53 KiB) Viewed 4955 times
Helena
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Re: The collar for the 1885 dress

Postby Helena » Thu Aug 29, 2013 4:57 am

And here's one photo of me wearing the thing, if it helps.
Attachments
me.jpg
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MaryGode
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Re: The collar for the 1885 dress

Postby MaryGode » Thu Aug 29, 2013 5:25 am

I put the dresses side by side and roughly at the same scale. Seems to me like the collar needs to come a little further down in the front. And maybe the collar is a little too wide at the front edge?

edit: or maybe not. Maybe it just need to come forward.

edit again to add: love the Star Wars collectibles!

Image
Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society. ~MarkTwain
Heather
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Re: The collar for the 1885 dress

Postby Heather » Thu Aug 29, 2013 9:32 am

Wow, that is really looking fantastic.

I looking at the collar, that is a rather strange shape. I take it that the bump is the part that sews to the neck? Or is that the outer edge? Either way, I'm not sure that is the best way to get where you want to go. Usually, collars curve in a little around the neck, as you need the outer edge to be longer than the inner edge.

Do you happen to have the TV405 pattern? If so, You could use the collar pattern from it. I think the neckline curve is just about right for what you want to do, and then you could adjust the outer edge to desired shape.
Helena
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Re: The collar for the 1885 dress

Postby Helena » Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:10 am

Hello,

Thank you both, Mary and Heather!
(The Star Wars collection belongs to my guy but I also have parts of it, haha! That big Darth Vader figure is mine!)

I went to look at the TV405. Looking at one of the photos it looks like it has minimal or no stand?

The collar for this dress need to have quite high stand to cover/hide the white collar in back. You can see that on the extant dress.

So I am wondering what you mean with bump. The transition from the back to the front, maybe?
I could add a little tiny bit of width just there to make it lay smoother, maybe also interfacing.

I also think of making the width a little smaller in front, judging by the shoulder width, and maybe a little less angled.

Mary, your side by side photo is good! Thanks! :)
Heather
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Re: The collar for the 1885 dress

Postby Heather » Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:20 am

By bump, I mean there is a straight edge on one long side, and the other long side (top edge in your pic) is taller in the middle than the ends. It bumps up in the pic, and looks more like a sleeve than a collar.

Yes, the stand for the TV405 collar is shorter, but you can make it taller by adjusting the center back seam. And then widen it at the outer edge to whatever height you need. If you want a 2" stand, then add 2" to the width at the center back, at the outer edge. Then shape the outer line to whatever width you want at the points.
Heather
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Re: The collar for the 1885 dress

Postby Heather » Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:43 am

Here is one of my famously awful line drawings for changing the TV405 collar to more what you want. Black is original collar, red is projected changes. The important part is the inner neck curve. Rest can all be changed to anything you want.

405collarchange.jpg
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Helena
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Re: The collar for the 1885 dress

Postby Helena » Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:54 am

I am still not getting you.. ;)

I do not have the TV405 pattern, I forgot to tell you that.

I am puzzled about your pattern. If the taller part (the left side) is for back then it needs a back seam, right?

The pattern piece of mine, the curved edge is the edge against neck.

I will try to think more later. :)
Helena
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Re: The collar for the 1885 dress

Postby Helena » Thu Aug 29, 2013 5:50 pm

Let's see if I interpret this correct, then my curve should be inverted, generally speaking? (and the rest adjusted along)
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Re: The collar for the 1885 dress

Postby Heather » Thu Aug 29, 2013 6:40 pm

Yes, that sounds right to me. The curve will allow the collar to bend around your neck and over your shoulder better. And the taller the collar, the more it should curve, generally speaking. The center back seam allows the fall to stand away a tad from the stand, with the angle change at the crease line. I hope this helps. Of course, I may be totally wrong, but theoretically, this is what should work.

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