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N.F. Two-tone bodice HELP

Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 12:07 pm
by Frank815
SOOOO....... started mocking up the bodice for this years dickens on the strand festival (YAY), and I have a few questions to pick your brain heather( or anyone really ).

1) My wife's waist to hip ratio is bigger than the pattern's waist to hip ratio. I have split the pattern in two places; The side seam, and the front/side front seam. Is this correct, yes or no? Everything lays flat when I do this, just want to make sure I am on the right track.

2) To lower the neckline, and consequently raise the waistline, do I make a tuck across the shoulder blades? Or is it under the arm, across the back?

3) (and here is the kicker) There is a odd "Billowing" of fabric at the center front, right across the chest where if I made a dart, it would all go away? How in sweet gherkin can I fix it to lie flat?

I will post pictures tonight, but I wanted to get the questions out there.


Re: N.F. Two-tone bodice HELP

Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 12:55 pm
by Frank815
Here are the pics:

Back with tuck.jpg
Back with tuck.jpg (7.29 KiB) Viewed 8672 times
front.jpg (7.79 KiB) Viewed 8672 times
Front with dart.jpg
Front with dart.jpg (7.74 KiB) Viewed 8672 times

See what I mean? Help.....

Re: N.F. Two-tone bodice HELP

Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 2:07 pm
by Heather
Those pics are a little small, I am having a hard time seeing what is going on. Do you have larger versions? You can email them to me if you don't want to post them her, either way is fine with me.

But from what I can see, whatever gets the hip area to lay smoothly is fine. If you need more room in the front hip, you can also let the dart out a bit below the waist as well. Also, be sure to account for any skirts and petticoats you need to go over.

The back looks pretty good, taking out the extra above the armpit. Where to take out the extra, either above the waist or across the shoulders is determined by your body. Start with the pattern with the armpit level high up into your armpit where it should sit. Then you fit up to your neck and down to your waist separately. I have a helper measurement page that talks about this more:

For the front, that is a rather odd place to have some extra. I am thinking that is it caused by the front being too short over the point of the shoulder, and then too short at the neckline. In other words, the angle of the shoulder seam is to angled, and the neckline edge needs to be lowered by the amount of your center front tuck. Or maybe the armhole edge raised up part way and the neck edge lowered part way. It does seen rather tight over the point of shoulder and you do want some ease there in order to move. I think this is also causing the wrinkling at the back above your tuck.

Over all, the whole thing looks a little tight across the bust? You should have a full 1" on either side of the center front to pin out for overlap and seam allowance. If you don't, then I would add some extra to the front at the side seam. That will let the armhole come forwards a bit (which looks a binding at the moment) and give you some ease over the bust, all at the same time.

Re: N.F. Two-tone bodice HELP

Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 2:25 pm
by Frank815
Yeah, sorry about the size of the photos. I will make another mockup in a lighter color fabric, that might help.

I did take into consideration skirts and petticoats, and with letting out where I did, everything should lay fine from the waist down.

NOW FROM THE WAIST UP: Regarding the weird extra across the chest, Yeah, I TOTALLY DONT HAVE 1" to pin up front. Should I go a whole size bigger from the waist up, and then tailor from there? This would give me the extra room in the shoulder and across the chest you were speaking of, correct? I'm gonna make a new mockup, in WHITE( should of done that in the first place, but hindsight and all that...), and take more pics.


Re: N.F. Two-tone bodice HELP

Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 3:07 pm
by Heather
Yes, you can go up a larger size in the front. That will give you 1 1/4" more across the bust. If that is more than you need, you can take some off again at the center front. This will help lean down the vest section and keep it from looking too wide. And that should also give you room to play around with over the shoulder. You might want to add some extra to the front shoulder line, just to give you some room to play with. Keep the neck point the same height, just pivot the outer shoulder point upwards about 1/2" or so. The tuck across the back is lowering this back shoulder point, so raising the front shoulder point to compensate might be a good idea. Or another way to go, when you shorten the back for the back length, shorten at the center back and neckline, but leave the outer shoulder point the same height. (changing the angle of the shoulder seam)

Does any of this help?

Re: N.F. Two-tone bodice HELP

Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 3:44 pm
by Frank815
More than you know, thanks heather!!!!! :D