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TV422 fitting help, too small somewhere

Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 3:36 pm
by Jessa
I've assembled TV422, Dinner Bodice, and my mockup has several inches of gap at the front. I'm not sure where I should add material to get the best fit.

Measurements:
bust 34.5
waist 25.5
back width 13
back length 17

I cut size C pieces all around, flaring to size F below the waist. I lengthened the bodice by 1.25 inches. The front is split into two pieces because the final bodice will have contrasting material for the center-front (yes, I remembered to add in the 0.5 inch seem allowance at the split).
bodice1frontb.jpg
front, held "closed" to show gap size
bodice1frontb.jpg (111.01 KiB) Viewed 10743 times

bodice1fronta.jpg
front
bodice1fronta.jpg (113.65 KiB) Viewed 10743 times

bodice1side.jpg
side
bodice1side.jpg (124.46 KiB) Viewed 10743 times

Re: TV422 fitting help, too small somewhere

Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 3:37 pm
by Jessa
one last image, of the back
bodice1back.jpg
back
bodice1back.jpg (117.09 KiB) Viewed 10742 times

Re: TV422 fitting help, too small somewhere

Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 4:44 pm
by Heather
If you are coming up short around the bust, then that means that you bust measure is larger than 34.5". Go ahead and remeasure you full bust. If you haven't seen it yet, take a look at my blog for tips on taking the measurement, http://www.trulyvictorian.net/blog1/blog2.php/2012/07/04/taking-your-measurements

Once you have remeasured, do the math again, and see where that leads you. I think the backs look good, so most likely you will just need to cut a larger front.

Re: TV422 fitting help, too small somewhere

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:34 pm
by Jessa
Thanks, Heather! I cut out a size F front and it's fitting much better now. Do you think it's a smidge long, or looks about right?
bodice2front.jpg
bodice2front.jpg (45.2 KiB) Viewed 10686 times

bodice2side.jpg
bodice2side.jpg (40.59 KiB) Viewed 10686 times

bodice2back.jpg
bodice2back.jpg (37.57 KiB) Viewed 10686 times

Re: TV422 fitting help, too small somewhere

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 3:15 pm
by Heather
Much better! I think the hip length is fine. As is the armpit to waist length But I think the upper back length is too long or something. I can't see the back neck, but it looks like it is sagging at the back of the shoulders. This can either be the back length is too long. Or it could be the front shoulder is too long and letting the back fall. Or a combination of both. You wan the back to reach up to 1/2" (seam allowance widdth) above of the large bone at the base of your neck. Then shorten the front if needed to fit smoothly down the to the bust level.

Re: TV422 fitting help, too small somewhere

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 6:08 pm
by MaryGode
Nice fit, and I love that skirt but most importantly, has anybody ever mentioned that you are a dead ringer for the late actress Sarah Siddons?

Re: TV422 fitting help, too small somewhere

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 11:31 pm
by Jessa
I think I've found part of the problem with the sag in the back. It's mostly happening on the right side. I accidentally didn't line up the right shoulder seam correctly. The back piece is about half an inch too far outbound (away from my neck).

I've got question about the boning placement/measurement. The instructions say that for the curved back seam the bone should "extend from 1.5 inch below arm hole to 0.25 inch above hip seam line." Does this mean that the spiral boning should extend all the way down through the "tail" in the back of the bodice?

Sarah Siddons, eh? Can't say I'd heard of her before, but she is lovely. I'll take that as a complement, Mary :)

Re: TV422 fitting help, too small somewhere

Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:26 am
by Heather
Oh, I have to take a look at those instructions. Not, you don't want boning to be that long. :oops: You can end the boning in the tails about 3-5" below the waist. And as the for the the top, I tend to stop the boning at just about the level the armpit, or slightly higher than the side bones end at.

If the back is standing away from your neck, then I am inclined to say that the front shoulder is too long above the armpit. In your mock up, take a horizontal tuck across the front shoulder area and see what happens. Take out about 3/4" I think. This should pull the back into your body and lift it up to where it should be. If it starts to pull the front waist up, it is too much.

Oh, and since you have a high bust, you will need to lengthen the darts up higher. The darts should end just below the fullest part of your bust.

Re: TV422 fitting help, too small somewhere

Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:12 pm
by Jessa
Thanks, will try it.

For the bones, the others are also described needing to end "0.25 inch above hip seam line." Is that still correct for the side and front seams?

Re: TV422 fitting help, too small somewhere

Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 1:01 pm
by Heather
Yes, that will hold the point and edges down.