1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Find out how to get that dang thing to fit.
Helena
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby Helena » Wed Oct 17, 2012 2:08 pm

Oh yes, yes, you are so right! Tomorrow I will buy the lining fabric and I will be off making the real deal. :) Or at least starting with it, I need to figure out the draping bit. :)
Helena
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby Helena » Sat Oct 20, 2012 8:45 am

Finally got time for fitting.
Decided to do last fitting today, with your suggestion for the back fix.
I moved up the "wonky" pieces according to your text but it made the fit worser. While it may look somewhat fine at the waist area, it got too puckered on the top half of those pieces, looking worser than it did before. (yes I did pin away the excess at top)

So I am deciding to not do this trick but go on with matching the notches as usual and ignore the diagonal stress marks. (or not, I just got an idea)

I wish myself good luck now with actual garment... :D
Heather
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby Heather » Sat Oct 20, 2012 9:51 am

Ah. well, I thought that would work. No worries. I think ignoring the lines is a good idea. :D Keep us posted on your progress!
MaryGode
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby MaryGode » Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:54 am

Heather wrote: Keep us posted on your progress!


Indeed! This has been like a drama serialized in a ladies magazine. I have to know how it turns out!
Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society. ~MarkTwain
Helena
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby Helena » Sat Oct 20, 2012 2:52 pm

LOL! Ok, I will keep you posted! I love to blab, so it would not be any problems. ;)

Now I will be away on an "almost" cross country trip to visit a relatives baby christening so I will not do anything for a couple of days.

I have cut out the sleeves in the fashion fabric so far.

I have made a few modifications on the pattern that I hope will turn out good on the final garment. :)

I am also contemplating on whether to try on actual draping (despite being alone) or cutting out following the patterns, that is, showing the shaping seams. For the bodice that is. I might have to cut off the waist at waist level and add a sash and it might work with draping - if I am brave enough. :)
Helena
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby Helena » Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:36 am

This is less of "help me!" but more of keeping you updated. ;)

I did the last minute idea to tweak the "diagonal piece" (Keeping with Heather's idea of moving the piece, and then I added my idea of "slash and move", slashed in fan shape and moved until I got a good shape) and did not do muslin, but saved it for the real deal.

Then I re-made the cut of the patterns (including removing CF seam line).. took a bit of brain work but it worked out and I was something of a daredevil, cutting it in real fabric. :D I decided to NOT drape because it is easier if I had a clone of myself, but instead do the design cut on the pattern stage. So I added a diagonal closure line and then I plan to add the "draping" bits as extra fabric pieces sewn on at the final stage I think, along with the closure line.

Here is latest fitting, on real fabric.
I have yet to make the "neck" bits, it is different fabric and I plan to do something fancy with it. So that's why there's empty V-shapes in front and in back. (and then collar too)

Now to make the fancy V bits.

(yes I did the flatlining with serger, following the guidelines of the awesome tutorial. I did the opposite because I cut the flatlining fabric first so I followed the edge of the flatlining fabric instead. It went good.)
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Heather
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby Heather » Thu Oct 25, 2012 10:11 am

Looks amazing!!

You might want to run stay stitch along the diagonal lines, to keep them from stretching. I find it really helps.
Helena
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby Helena » Thu Oct 25, 2012 10:57 am

Thank you!

Stay stitches: You are right! Forgot to do that.

Still experimenting with the V bits. Pleating, folding, gathering... :D
Helena
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby Helena » Wed Oct 31, 2012 11:25 am

This took longer than I thought. Fiddled, fiddled, fiddled.
I added boning in neat channels, hand-sewn everything down carefully, the seam allowance to the flatlining because the fashion fabric is awful to iron, it won't hold ironed shape so I have to tack down the allowances to give an impression of ironed flat seam allowances... :D
BUT then I realized I should check of the bodice length is OK before I do all this crazy time consuming work. DOH! Of course it is too long for me liking so I had to unpick and shorten boning, shorten boning cases, and re-do the hand-sewing.......... LOL!
I also added that neck thing and the collar, I invented a collar closure cut and I have sewn on 18 snap buttons (I tried to get it look good with hook&eyes but the fabric edge protuded awfully so I went for snap buttons), and now on this fitting it is halfways finished, the snap buttons are down to the V shape end. Pinned at the bottom.
Now I will add sleeves and add the remainder of the snaps! (and then of course adding those fake-drapery bits)

The bottom is just basted in place for now to see if it looks right.

BTW nevermind the big crease on one shoulder, I was probably not standing properly, and of course the open skirt, lol, I always need help with closing the skirt hooks&eyes.. ;D
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Iris
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby Iris » Wed May 08, 2013 2:54 pm

I've been re-reading this discussion to get the fine points of fitting. Unlike Helena, I'm practically flat-fronted. I thought the back was fine until I saw she had to take in the gap at the back of the armhole. OK, fix is shown in the directions.
The part that worries me about this discussion is the collar. In her pictures, it closes completely. I used a C front and an E back and neither one of them closes completely. On guys this build looks good. On women, not so much.
Should I just experiment with the collar pattern piece until I find a length that will close -- assuming half-inch seam allowances on both ends? Or is there a quicker fix?
Thanks.
Heather
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby Heather » Wed May 08, 2013 5:24 pm

Are you saying that the neckline of the bodice is fitting correctly, and that it is only the collar that is not fitting the neckline? The collar should be shorter than the neckline itself, as it will just meet edge to edge, while the bodice overlaps in front.

The wider back will effect slightly the sizes, at 1/16" per size. So maybe a middle ground of size D collar will be fine. Or, you can make the front edge of the collar a narrower seam allowance, at 3/8" instead of 1/2", to make up for the additional size at the back. If your gap is wider than 1/4", then I suspect something else is the problem.
Iris
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby Iris » Wed May 08, 2013 5:29 pm

Thank you, Heather, but you're scaring me.
I'm attaching a picture that shows my neck fully revealed. I'm the old lady on the left.
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Iris
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby Iris » Wed May 08, 2013 5:33 pm

Oops. Didn't answer your first question. Yes, the bodice overlaps evenly all the way from top of hip to collar. I'm only having measurement questions with the collar. If it's supposed to just touch, I can adjust size accordingly.
Thanks.
But if you see anything in the photo that looks like a possible cause of the problem, please let me know.
Heather
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby Heather » Wed May 08, 2013 5:34 pm

Um, is that the correct picture? I thought we were talking about TV493 - 1893 Plain Bodice.
Iris
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Re: 1896 Plain Bodice - fitting

Postby Iris » Wed May 08, 2013 5:49 pm

It's one of only two pix I have. The other involves modern clothes, too, atop the Griffith Observatory walkway. Point was to see if muscle shape is skewing fit.

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