Bodice rides up and creates unsightly wrinkle

Find out how to get that dang thing to fit.
Madamekat
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Bodice rides up and creates unsightly wrinkle

Postby Madamekat » Sat Dec 31, 2011 8:10 am

Hello, Heather!

Can you help me out and let me know what I'm doing wrong here? My bodice fits fine if I'm standing still, but the minute I move, it rides up and crates a wrinkle above my bust like in this photo in which I'm showing off my elegant fuzzy slippers:

Image

Help!
"I firmly believe that every human being has a duty to make himself as attractive as possible," Erté wrote. "Clothes are a kind of alchemy; they can transform human beings into things of beauty or ugliness."
Heather
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Re: Bodice rides up and creates unsightly wrinkle

Postby Heather » Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:13 am

Sounds like something is too short. I am seeing more problems with the neckline gapping like that. Take a close look at how the bodice is fitting from armpit to shoulder and center bust to nape of neck. I am thinking that the bodice is a tad too long from center front to nape of neck, and a tad short from armpit to top of shoulder. In other words, the angle of the shoulder line on the front piece is too steep. Try shortening the neck point and raising up the shoulder point.
Madamekat
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Location: outside of Philadelphia, PA

Re: Bodice rides up and creates unsightly wrinkle

Postby Madamekat » Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:47 am

OK, thanks! I have sloping shoulders, so I compensate when I cut the bodice. Perhaps I'm overcompensating!
"I firmly believe that every human being has a duty to make himself as attractive as possible," Erté wrote. "Clothes are a kind of alchemy; they can transform human beings into things of beauty or ugliness."
gretagretchen
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Re: Bodice rides up and creates unsightly wrinkle

Postby gretagretchen » Sun Jan 01, 2012 9:37 pm

Heather,

I have similar problems as Madamekat. I don't exactly know where the points you mentioned are. Would you please describe the fixes in more detail?
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Heather
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Re: Bodice rides up and creates unsightly wrinkle

Postby Heather » Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:24 pm

Here is a pic of the front pattern piece. The black would be the original lines, the red would be lowering the neck shoulder point and raising the outside shoulder point. This should tighten up the neckline gap (extra length from bust to nape of neck), and add ease over the point of the shoulder. You want a little bit of ease over the point of the shoulder so you can make moderate arm movements without shifting the entire bodice. You should be able to lift your arms to almost shoulder height, but not much farther. If the bodice is too snug over the shoulder, then as you move, it will lift the bodice up. But if the bodice is too long at the neck shoulder point, the bodice will gap at the neckline.

Another issue with a "V" shape neckline, the bias edge can stretch out of shape very easily. Sewing a 1/8" twill tape along the seam line will hold the neckline and keep it from stretching and gapping. You can even snug up the neckline a bit by stretching the tape as you sew it onto the edge, or shrinking the edge onto the twill tape.
gretagretchen
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Re: Bodice rides up and creates unsightly wrinkle

Postby gretagretchen » Mon Jan 02, 2012 12:44 am

Thanks fo the explanation but I dont see the diagram?
Aka Wilhelmina Frame, Editrix de Mode, steampunkchronicle.com
Heather
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Re: Bodice rides up and creates unsightly wrinkle

Postby Heather » Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:16 am

Doh, forgot to add the diagram!!

shoudler.jpg
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