Getting rid of creases

Find out how to get that dang thing to fit.
Rebecca
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Getting rid of creases

Postby Rebecca » Sun Jul 01, 2007 1:31 pm

I'm working on TV460 and it's been wonderful to work with, only problem is I can't seem to get rid of some creases just above my bust line next to the armhole. They didn't show up in my mockup and I didn't notice them until I got the sleeves in. Any suggestions? Only things I can think of might be to widen the armhole or put some padding over my bust. I did have to shorten the pattern between the neck and my bust and I'm wondering if I should have shortened it more. Help I don't know what to do! :?

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Dale
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creases

Postby Dale » Sun Jul 01, 2007 5:47 pm

Hi, if you'll undo the sleeves at the shoulder and pull up the outer portion of the shoulder seam, making sure that the seam is on the back-side of the shoulder, not the top as in contemporary fitting, that will take care of your creasing. I had the same problem and a friend who is a historical clothier did that and it was great. Pin it first, then pin the sleeves in or baste first and you'll see the difference. Also, if you widen the sleeve opening just a bit at the underarm about breast high, that will also give you some ease due to pulling the shoulder up some. Let me know how it goes.
Rebecca
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Postby Rebecca » Sun Jul 01, 2007 7:08 pm

Thanks Dale I'll give it a try tonight and see how it goes. The armhole is already a bit on the tight side so I'll try trimming it down a little as well. I'll let you know what happens.
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Postby Heather » Sun Jul 01, 2007 10:01 pm

I was thinking that it may be the armhole is too tight up under your armpit, and the arm is pushing the bodice down a tad. This was not notice in the mock up as the sleeve holds it all up, while without the fabric can be pushed around more.

So maybe when you shortened the upper shouler area, it go a little too short? Cutting the armhole a tad lower should help. Also, trim away your seam allowance, it that is still sticking up into the pit area.
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Re: creases

Postby m d b » Mon Jul 02, 2007 6:27 am

I know I have the same fitting issues right there and I wind up with a pattern just like in patterns of Fashion and period pattern diagrams with the deep curve over the bust rather than a straight line. It's quite hard to describe but if you unpick the shoulder and smooth from the crease up and diagonally towards the middle of the shoulder and pin again you should be able to smooth that crease out. You are in essence using the bias of the fabric to smooth this area, but I'd pin it and test it a few times because you are playing with the stretch of the fabric. The armscye will wind up higher on the shoulder but depending on the period this is perfectly appropriate:)

I think also your fabric is quite heavy? It's probably not as stretchy as your mock up? It's looking great though so I hope you aren't discouraged!
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Rebecca
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Postby Rebecca » Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:25 am

Thank you so much for the suggestions! I'm working on ripping the sleeve out right now then I'll try cutting the armhole a bit lower and pulling up on the shoulder seam. I'll let you now how it turns out when I get it put back together in the next day or two.
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Postby Heather » Mon Jul 02, 2007 12:05 pm

Hold on... If you do both, you will have the exact same issue only shorter. And you will start to raise the waistline too.

Try letting out the shoulder, and allowing the arm pit to drop lower. Or cutting the armpit lower. I can't see the whole front in the pics, but if you have any creasing all all in the body area going from low under the arm to higher under the side bust, then you know you have the shoulder (at the neckline) to short already.
Rebecca
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Postby Rebecca » Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:47 pm

So now I'm starting to get frustrated, I've cut the armpit lower and I'm still getting those creases, now I'm afraid to cut more and make the armscye way to big. All this could be due to my lack of tayloring skills. :( :oops: The only other idea I have is to try bust padding. I read the article on bust pads at the Elizabeth Stewart Clark site.
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com/GAMC/FP/index.htm
I'm thinking I may be a candidate for padding because the creases on my bodice are basically falling directly into the creases above my breasts created when I wear a corset because my flesh is so soft. Has anyone else tried this method or am I just giving up to soon because of my lack of expertise at fitting? :oops:
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Getting rid of creases

Postby drusillamonte » Thu Jul 05, 2007 5:02 am

Rebecca, it is just a matter of your armholes (called armskyes in tailoring) being too small and not cut correctly.
1. First thing..the shoulder seam from the neck to the point of your shoulder is too long, shorten it at least an inch.
2. Second, cut the front seam of the armhole into the bodice more curved from the shoulder seam down, scooping slightly more as you reach the front bottom of the curve but not too long. You should measure your armhole measurement with a tape, first around your armpit and shoulder to get an accurate measurement and then add an inch for ease of movement. When you go to cut your material on the front of the bodice for the armhole, mark it first with a fabric pencil, pin the sleeve on at the pencil line try it on, then cut.
Hope this helps, we all have had a similar problem, it's just a part of learning how to custom fit clothing. I would suggest you get some books on tailoring, they describe how to fit things better to different body types.
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Postby Dana » Tue Jul 10, 2007 8:55 pm

Regarding your question about the bust padding, I have seen a number of extant bodices with this sort of "wadding" in them so at least your problem is common to the era! :wink: (Actually, I have the sort of body that lacks flesh in that area and bust padding would help in the bodice if I could ever get around to doing it.

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