Tucked in blouses / bodices

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gretagretchen
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Tucked in blouses / bodices

Postby gretagretchen » Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:55 pm

I get confused about tucked in blouses / bodices with bustle dresses. I don't understand how they sit over the bustle without getting bulky.

I'm recreating this dress and the blouse is the only part that confuses me.

Image
Aka Wilhelmina Frame, Editrix de Mode, steampunkchronicle.com
Heather
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Re: Tucked in blouses / bodices

Postby Heather » Mon Aug 24, 2015 7:13 am

Most blouses from this period end at the belt and do not go below the waist. However, this creates it's own problem, of separation from the skirt and gapping. There are a couple ways to solve this. The best is to make the waistband of the overskirt fit over the bodice. In you pic, it is hard to tell if the wide belt is attached the blouse or the overskirt. There might be a narrow band to finish the bottom of the blouse, and then this belt is the band for the overskirt.

Another method for keeping the top separating from the bottom is to place hooks on the band of the blouse and band of the skirt, and actually hold them both together.

Oh, The name for this type of blouse, is "spencer waist". Finally remembered it.
gretagretchen
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 228
Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:08 pm

Re: Tucked in blouses / bodices

Postby gretagretchen » Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:33 am

The belt is a separate piece. I got that from the auction listing but sadly they don't show the pieces separately.
Aka Wilhelmina Frame, Editrix de Mode, steampunkchronicle.com
gretagretchen
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 228
Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:08 pm

Re: Tucked in blouses / bodices

Postby gretagretchen » Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:03 pm

what is my best pattern option for this?
Aka Wilhelmina Frame, Editrix de Mode, steampunkchronicle.com
Heather
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Re: Tucked in blouses / bodices

Postby Heather » Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:12 pm

This is a basic plain blouse, so I would go with TV460, and either end it at the waist or just tuck it in. Do not line it, or put in the darts. TV460 has a fuller sleeve at the top, so you can swap it out for one of the natural form sleeves instead. Or maybe just go with the TV420, the Natural Form bodice, and end it at the waist. If you go over a bustle, you will need to make the back larger below the waist.

With either pattern, if you want fewer seams in the back portion, and you are ending the pattern at the waistline, then you can combine the side and side back piece into one piece. Just lay the pattern pieces next to each other, overlapping the seam allowance at the armhole and the waistline. The middle of the seam will be apart a little bit, but that is a good thing; it will add a bit of ease into the back of the blouse.

Then just add the trim down the front, with the lace frill.

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