Working with TV 496

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gretagretchen
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Working with TV 496

Postby gretagretchen » Sun Jul 19, 2015 9:50 pm

I feel reasonably confident that TV 496 could be adjusted to get something like what is pictured below, but I'm not exactly sure how to do it. Might need to pull in some pieces from the French Vest Bodice? Thoughts?

Image

Image
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Heather
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Re: Working with TV 496

Postby Heather » Sun Jul 19, 2015 10:19 pm

These hidden closures and layers are quite complicated to work out the logistics. There are a lot of ways to go, and various short cuts you could use, but I would need to know what elements you are willing to sacrafice, and which you really want to keep, to know which to recommend.

It might actually be easiest to make this as a separate vest and jacket, rather than all in one garment. In which case, you can use a bodice pattern for the vest, and then the jacket over it.

As a second level option (most likely my choice), you can make this based on a bodice, and then add the jacket fronts to the bodice at the side and shoulder seams. Basically, you have one back layer, and two front layers. This would keep the back and the sides of the jacket/bodice close to the body, but the front would be loose. I would most likely sacrifice the hidden closure, and just make it hook down the center front.

If you want to keep the hidden closure, then you will end up with 3 layers at the front, with the lining separate from the vest overlay. They would still all be connected at the side and shoulder seams.
gretagretchen
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Posts: 228
Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:08 pm

Re: Working with TV 496

Postby gretagretchen » Mon Jul 20, 2015 9:42 am

I don't care about the double layer. I think that is there to have a white background for the openwork? If I used a open work piece I'd add a liner to that versus an entire internal.

I like the idea of a separate vest I just wonder about the heat factor.
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Heather
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Re: Working with TV 496

Postby Heather » Mon Jul 20, 2015 1:00 pm

Once you have this many layers on already, one more doesn't really make a difference. And it will give you the benefit of being able to remove the jacket, it the heat becomes unbearable. Just keep all your layers, from the chemise out to the jacket, made with natural-fiber fabrics (wool, linen, cotton, silk) and you will be just fine. If any of your layers have poly/rayon/acetate/nylon in them, it will amplify the heat. If anything, all the layers will help insulate you against the heat.

The white under layer is your bodice lining, which every bodice has, only in this case the main layer is not flatlined to it. So you are not really adding layers as much as you are separating them out. If that makes sense. You always need that fitted lining to keep the bodice fitting smooth and keep everything in place. Then you just build the outside onto the lining, in any style or manner that you wish. For this bodice, think of it as being a regular bodice with a jacket front added over the bodice, rather than a jacket with a vest under it. Then the construction should make a little more sense when it is all combined into one garment. Something that might help you visualize this, though not exactly the same thing, is this blog post on a layered vest look, http://www.trulyvictorian.net/blog1/blog2.php/anatomy-of-a-layered-vest

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