Pattern Help/Question

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kellydofc
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Pattern Help/Question

Postby kellydofc » Tue Jun 17, 2014 9:46 pm

I am in love with this ballgown I found in Fashions of the Gilded Age (the one on the left)http://www.pinterest.com/pin/457678380854823991/ unfortunately for the life of me I can't figure out how to scale up the pattern. Are there any patterns from Truly Victorian that could be altered to work or can someone walk me through how to scale up a pattern in VERY simple easy terms (ie Scaling up for Dummies)?
My other question is how do they manage to control the pleats on the skirt? If anyone has the book it is on page 52 of volume 2
Thanks in advance for the help.
Heather
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Re: Pattern Help/Question

Postby Heather » Tue Jun 17, 2014 10:13 pm

Scaling up can be interesting. I think the easiest way would be to trace the figures onto graph paper. Then take a large paper with graph lines on it that are 4 or 8 times as large. So if your graph paper is 1/4" squares, you need to mark your paper with 2" squares for the 1/8 scale, or 1" for the 1/4 scale pieces. Then you just redraw the pattern full size, using the lines as a reference. This will not make the pattern your size though, just the original size of the pattern. (Though looking at the book, I can see a major error in the waist placement on the front and side piece that would need to be corrected in order to make it work properly.)

The second way to go would be to find a full size pattern that fits you and then make the style changes from the book to your pattern.

The skirt pattern is pretty easy. TV225 is pretty much the same shape. The long pleats are then added over the skirt, and tacked to the skirt to keep them in place. The pleats don't have to go to the top, just high enough to have the top edge hidden under the bodice.

The bodice can be made from TV423. If you lengthen the hem and combine the back and side back like in the book, and then cut the neckline down, you should have a pretty close match to the pattern in the book. If you don't want the split vest in the front, you can swap out the front of TV420 or TV422 instead.
kellydofc
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Re: Pattern Help/Question

Postby kellydofc » Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:00 pm

Thanks Heather, you are amazing! If there are problems with the waist on the original then I'm going to skip trying to scale that up and use Truly Victorian patterns as a jumping off point.
I do want to keep the tunic but I am guessing I can just lengthen the bodice to the correct point.I am also assuming I could use the neckline from 416 as a jumping off point for cutting down the neck correctly.
Another quick question. When I am reading the write up in the book they talk about cutting the skirt of tulle and then covering the front with pleating. Is this a typo on her part because it's almost seems as if she's saying the back of the skirt is just a piece of tulle and that seems crazy to me?
Heather
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Re: Pattern Help/Question

Postby Heather » Wed Jun 18, 2014 9:51 am

The write up is taken directly from the original pattern source, and is usually a little cryptic.

Basically, you want to make the skirt out of a supporting layer of fabric. They are saying to use net for this. Which is strange as I have never seen net used for a skirt base. I prefer to use a medium weight cotton broadcloth. Then lay the pleats over that. The overskirt layer for this dress would be of the "gold silk", but would be tulle for the other dress. If your over layer is going to be tulle, then I would use a good fabric for the base skirt (rather than broadcloth), as it will show through the tulle.

Yep, just lengthen the bodice to match what you are seeing in the book. You will need to add the pleats just like in the book, as well. Tv416 has a wider off-shoulder neckline, so use that for your guide for the shoulder straps.

Sounds like you have a good plan!
Frank815
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Re: Pattern Help/Question

Postby Frank815 » Thu Jun 19, 2014 1:48 pm

I cant quite remember her name, but she has a profile on this board. She made a copy of this dress, and she took amazing construction notes and pictures.

http://the-aristocat.livejournal.com/tag/1882%20ball%20gown
My fears behind me, gone are the shadows and doubts. That was then, this is my now...
kellydofc
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Location: Dexter, MI

Re: Pattern Help/Question

Postby kellydofc » Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:11 pm

Thanks, Frank but it is actually the other dress I am interested in, the one without the ruffled skirt.
Frank815
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Re: Pattern Help/Question

Postby Frank815 » Mon Jun 23, 2014 9:14 am

Oops, sorry!! :?
My fears behind me, gone are the shadows and doubts. That was then, this is my now...
kellydofc
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 165
Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 7:56 pm
Location: Dexter, MI

Re: Pattern Help/Question

Postby kellydofc » Mon Jun 23, 2014 11:08 am

It's okay. Thanks for posting the link it was interesting reading.

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