TV 201 1870's skirt ruffle

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SarahMiller42
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TV 201 1870's skirt ruffle

Postby SarahMiller42 » Tue Sep 18, 2012 10:21 pm

So I want to make this skirt and put the 12 inch ruffle of box pleats. I'm making the skirt out of cotton velvet. Do I need to make the skirt full length and then put the ruffle on or can I cut the skirt 8 inches shorter and cover it with the ruffle? It seems like the two layers would add a lot of excess weight and use more fabric than absolutely needed. I'm going to line the box pleats with silk so I can do the decorative effect from the "Visiting Toilette" on page 74 in the Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper's Bazar 1867-1898. Any advice on how to do that?
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Re: TV 201 1870's skirt ruffle

Postby Heather » Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:44 am

Oh, I love that dress!!

You want to take the skirt all the way to the hem, and then lay the ruffle over the skirt. This is how all Victorian dresses are made. It works better to keep your trims in place; you can tack them down to the skirt underneath, so they won't move.

To make this ruffle, you are going to need more fabric for your ruffle than the pattern allows. This ruffle is a double box pleat, sewn to the skirt about 1-2" below the top of the ruffle. The outside of the pleat is then allowed to flop over (or is pulled down) to give the 3-D effect. Very easy to do. Make up your box pleats in your ruffle to the size that you want them to be. Then lay the completed ruffle onto your skirt, matching your hems. You only need to put the ruffle on the front of the skirt, since the back is covered by the train. Which will help cut down on the yardage you might need. But it might be best to tack the train to the side seams to make sure the plain back is not seen.
SarahMiller42
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Re: TV 201 1870's skirt ruffle

Postby SarahMiller42 » Wed Sep 19, 2012 2:51 pm

I wasn't going to make the train since I wanted the skirt walking length so should I do the trim all the way around. I get how to make box pleats but how do you do double box pleats?
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Re: TV 201 1870's skirt ruffle

Postby Heather » Wed Sep 19, 2012 6:44 pm

A double box pleat is exactly the same as a single, only you add an extra fold (two if you count forwards and backwards separately), behind the first fold. If you are leaving off the train, then you can take the trim around the entire skirt. Or they often did a different thing on the back of a skirt, so you can make doing only the front work too.

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The extra fold means you need extra fabric beyond the cut 5. I think you will need to cut 8 to get around the whole skirt.
SarahMiller42
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Re: TV 201 1870's skirt ruffle

Postby SarahMiller42 » Sun Dec 02, 2012 7:51 pm

So I finally finished the skirt. I need to reinforce the waistband because the fabric is cotton velvet with a little lycra. Just enough to make the waist band streatch and slide down from where it needs to be and the hem which should just clear the ground drags. I'm thinking of cutting a strip the right size of twill tape and sewing it in. Will that work?

Image
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Re: TV 201 1870's skirt ruffle

Postby Heather » Mon Dec 03, 2012 12:39 am

Or, you could just make the waistband out of something else, since it won't be seen under your polonaise. Maybe find a cotton broadcloth in a similoar color as your skirt. This will help cut down on bulk, since the skirt fabric is make of velvet.
SarahMiller42
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Re: TV 201 1870's skirt ruffle

Postby SarahMiller42 » Mon Dec 03, 2012 4:07 am

I was just wearing the polonaise since I hadn't made the bodice yet. I'm planing on making TV403 the 1872 Vested bodice to match for cooler weather wear and maybe wearing the white blouse waist with it in slightly warmer weather. =) I think the waistband would show with either of those options.
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Re: TV 201 1870's skirt ruffle

Postby Heather » Mon Dec 03, 2012 9:24 am

Well, technically, the waistband should never show, so it is common on extant garments to have a waistband that is different. Or often it's even just a petersham belt. But I understand your point. Adding a tape or something will work well.
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Re: TV 201 1870's skirt ruffle

Postby Helena » Sat Dec 15, 2012 4:50 pm

I love the skirt! The trim is wonderful!
SarahMiller42
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Re: TV 201 1870's skirt ruffle

Postby SarahMiller42 » Sat Dec 15, 2012 11:40 pm

Thank you.

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