
I've recently gained some weight and am having to refit my wardrobe (plus the fourth annual train trip is on in less than a month and I need a new outfit!). My backwidth of 14" has not changed. Bust is 39", waist 32" (both corseted measures). Even before the weight gain, I had the same issue in the other two French vest bodices I made; with an E back and D front on the first two, and the current one in mock-up stage with E front and back, I get adequate fit around the waist, but the top of the bust area always seems to "fall flat". Imagine a souffle as my chest, with the corset edge visible through the fabric, and the souffle of my bosom sagging behind it. It's a very pronounced shelf look. The current mock up has 1" to 1 1/4" of overlap in front without being pulled overly tight (yahoo!) and the top part, over the edge of the corset, would be closer to 1 3/4" or more. My last bodice, with the E back and D front, no longer has the "flat souffle" effect, but it won't close at the waist.
I'm not sure how to fit this. Surely other small-chested-compared-to-the-waist-and-hip ladies have had this problem? How does one correct it? I'm currently fitting the French vest bodice because it's the one I've had the most experience constructing.
Thank you for any and all suggestions!