Boning "take up"

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Dede
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Boning "take up"

Postby Dede » Wed May 16, 2012 1:09 pm

Well... the bodice fit perfectly... before I put in the boning (spiral steel). Now the bodice is slightly but very definitely smaller. We call this "take up" in the drapery industry, as in "the length the drapery is shortened when shirred through a rod pocket."

Image

I'm guessing this is what happened when I put in the bones: their collective bulk ate up some of the width of the bodice. Has anyone ever experienced this?
Heather
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Re: Boning "take up"

Postby Heather » Wed May 16, 2012 1:54 pm

I find that the steel boning is thin enough to not add a lot of bulk. I think just the seams alone will add more than the boning would. But then I like my bodices to fit snug. I usually have to pull each button to get it button, but once they are all done up, it fits great. And fabric stretches (except silk) so after a while it will loosen up.

But the time of day, how hot it is, time of month, how much you ate recently can all effect how you lace into your corset. I can be one size in the morning, and a size larger after lunch. I tend to do all my fittings in the morning when I am the smallest. Which means that by the time I get around to wearing the dress to an event, it fits tighter than I remember.

The trick I use is to never fit a mockup or early bodice fitting too snug. It should fit smooth, but not be tight at these stages. Mockups especially will stretch much more easily than your finished bodice, so you have to be carefull to never pull it tight.
Dede
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Re: Boning "take up"

Postby Dede » Wed May 16, 2012 5:47 pm

Heather wrote:But the time of day, how hot it is, time of month, how much you ate recently can all effect how you lace into your corset. I can be one size in the morning, and a size larger after lunch. I tend to do all my fittings in the morning when I am the smallest. Which means that by the time I get around to wearing the dress to an event, it fits tighter than I remember.

Wow... that makes so much sense! Seems obvious, but I hadn't even considered that bodices could be like... well, shoes.

The trick I use is to never fit a mockup or early bodice fitting too snug. It should fit smooth, but not be tight at these stages. Mockups especially will stretch much more easily than your finished bodice, so you have to be carefull to never pull it tight.

This has definitely been a learning experience. Thank you for your insight!
rajani
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Re: Boning "take up"

Postby rajani » Thu May 17, 2012 1:48 pm

I'd kind of agree with both of you. I do think boning and boning casings take up just enough space that it can mean the difference between snug fit and just a tad too tight. I also think sewing in a bag lining does the same thing, whether it's because of the seams it creates or from the fabric thickness itself. I've learned to make the mockups just slightly on the loose side - fitting, but with a teeny teeny bit of ease, maybe even as little as a quarter to a half inch of girth distributed all the way around all the seams (just a fraction on each seam can make a difference...if you have ever quilted, you know that unless your 1/4" inch seams are exactly that, you can easily have a quilt block that turns out 6" instead of the 6.5" you were shooting for). If I start loose, once I get everything put together, the final bodices seem to fit just right. If you always mock up on the loose side, I also think it's easier to take in the bodice and not have visible seam stitching remain like you might have if it has to be let out should it end up too tight. I've just had to let out a bodice made in silk taffeta (yikes) because I started it when I was thinner and now I've expanded laterally a few pounds (!). I am now faced with having to do something to disguise the most visible parts of the alteration as taffeta doesn't exactly look like new after having been stitched and pressed then taken apart. Fortunately I have come up with a solution that will look like an intentional trimming scheme, so it should work out.

I, like Heather, like my measurements best in the morning. I think it's a true measurement because you have slept off anything you might have eaten or drank the day before. It's a consistent time of day before any weight/shape-changing activities occur.

My two cents,
Raj
Dede
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Re: Boning "take up"

Postby Dede » Thu May 17, 2012 3:59 pm

This is my first experience with such a form-fitting bodice, with no room for adjustable error. I've made "wench"-style corsets boned with zip ties (with lots of room for fluctuation), but that's it.

Prom is Saturday, and DD is trying to avoid starching out 'til it's over. And like Heather mentioned... yes, timing could not be worse. :roll:

So... could be the bones (and their casings); could be subtle weight fluctuation; could be both.

Raj, I don't quilt, but I do know that a tiny fraction added to/subtracted from SA of a slipcover makes a very visible and apparent difference. Sometimes I increase SA very slightly to achieve a "Shabby Chic" look.
Dede
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Re: Boning "take up"

Postby Dede » Sun May 20, 2012 6:23 am

Well... prom was last night. Pinned up the poufs on her bustle with a tag gun while she was dong her makeup. (Who, me? Last minute?) :mrgreen:

She said the line was too long to wait for professional photos, so I'll post some a friend took as soon as she sends them. Every one who helped... THANK YOU!

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