TV 462/428 hybrid for a Steampunk Party

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HighButtonBoots
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TV 462/428 hybrid for a Steampunk Party

Postby HighButtonBoots » Sun Oct 23, 2011 7:39 pm

Hey all,

I'm working on a new dress to wear to a Steampunk party on the 30th. I'm using black synthetic taffeta for the main fabric, bright red moire for the trim on the skirt and lapels on the bodice, and red satin piping on the bodice and skirt hem.

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I used the 1870s bustle underskirt, shortened, for the skirt and petticoat, and they both came out beautifully. I made the short version of the Laughing Moon bustle over a year ago, and finally have an occasion to wear it. :D

I'm using the front and lapels of TV 428 (1880 Jacket Bodice) combined with the back and sides of TV 462 (1883 Tail Bodice). I think I've gotten the mockup fitted as well as I can manage, so I'm going to cut out the taffeta and hope for the best. I'm going to wait until the bodice is nearly finished (including the buttons and buttonholes) to pin and adjust the darts, so I can make sure they're right the first time I sew them.

My question: The Tail Bodice pattern calls for the interlining to stop below the waist on the back pattern pieces. I would prefer to flatline the tails with muslin, and then bag line the whole affair, or even do the flatlining in red cotton, and then just pipe the edges of the tails as a hem, without the separate lining (though that would require a LOT of precise handstitching to finish the piping off and tack it to the flatlining for the best appearance). I'm definitely not going to fully line the main body of the bodice, to save time (the armscyes and hem are going to be piped), but I'm wondering whether any of tail lining options sound feasible, or if I'm completely off base. This is a very crisp and heavy taffeta, but not nearly as thick or substantial as, say, cotton twill or brocade, so I don't think it will drape well without additional support.

Also, just as a note, I've legally changed my name to Emma, and am undergoing a gender transition, which is one reason I've been absent for so long from the forum. I'm a lot happier nowadays and have a lot more friends for support, which is great, and am doing the second half of a two-year stint with AmeriCorps, which has helped me fund both my transition and sewing projects. :)
LidiaBest
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Re: TV 462/428 hybrid for a Steampunk Party

Postby LidiaBest » Sun Oct 23, 2011 7:53 pm

It's good to have you back here Emma! Do you still live in Dearborn?
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Re: TV 462/428 hybrid for a Steampunk Party

Postby Heather » Sun Oct 23, 2011 8:04 pm

It think with the tails, you can pretty much do anything you like. There are no hard and fast rules with sewing. It is all about what works best for you and your specific project. If you think the extra support will be better, then go for it.

Me, I would do the bag lining rather than the piped facing. Much less work, and it would be less noticeable in the end.
HighButtonBoots
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Re: TV 462/428 hybrid for a Steampunk Party

Postby HighButtonBoots » Sun Oct 23, 2011 8:56 pm

Yep, Lydia, I'm still in the Dearborn area!

Thanks Heather, that really helps! I always worry about the decisions I make with construction, so it's nice to have some reassurance. I'll do the bag lining, but still pipe the edge. After managing it successfully on the skirt, I can't wait to do more.
Tiffers
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Re: TV 462/428 hybrid for a Steampunk Party

Postby Tiffers » Mon Oct 24, 2011 10:48 am

Nice to see you back Emma :D Your project sounds delicious!! Cant wait to see it :)

Tiffers
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Re: TV 462/428 hybrid for a Steampunk Party

Postby Kit » Mon Oct 24, 2011 9:51 pm

Good to see you back, you have some amazing creativity. I just love watching your projects develop.
Caesar si viveret, ad remum dareris - If Caesar were alive, you'd be chained to an oar
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HighButtonBoots
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Re: TV 462/428 hybrid for a Steampunk Party

Postby HighButtonBoots » Sat Dec 31, 2011 3:46 pm

Hi all!

Though I'm two months late in posting back, I did wear the dress for the Halloween party. I just had to go without the bodice piping or hem sewn on. :roll: It didn't matter; no one noticed and my friends loved the dress. No good photos, unfortunately, from that party.

I attended a Christmas/New Year's party at the same venue last night, and actually finished piping and hemming the bodice in time. The event photos are dark and grainy, unfortunately, even with some enhancement, but I have a few photos of the dress on my dress dummy in daylight, so a little more detail can be seen. The dummy has different proportions and is smaller than I am in some areas, so the bodice fabric is pulling and wrinkling a lot more than it should on the dress form.

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And me, at the end of the night, just after I got home from the party (hence the frizzy hair and slight facial shine):

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I got half a dozen compliments on my dress from people I didn't know, three people saying they loved my haircut, and an older drunk man with an Australian accent who said my lips looked like the wings of a bird in flight when I smiled. He kept popping up all night, getting me to smile, and running off again. I had a lot of fun. ^_^

What I would have done differently:

I had issues with the fit of the shoulders (combining one of the largest size back bodice pieces with much smaller front ones always gives me trouble). When I got them adjusted (taken in) to the point they were close enough (though there is visible vertical tension from the shoulder line to the bust), I had to play around with the collar to get it resized correctly. I failed somewhere, as the collar refuses to lay properly and pops up a lot. I had to tack the back of the collar to the center collar/bodice seam to keep it down, though it's still not laying smoothly. I also cut the front bodice piece's shoulder narrower than the back piece, so I had to piece in a triangular insert right on the edge of the front piece armscye. That made piping the armholes a lot more difficult and messy, since there was an extra diagonal seam allowance the piping had to go over and cover.

I should have flatlined the bodice tail with black or red cotton instead of the white muslin I had on hand. I ended up running out of time to put a full black lining in, so I just piped the edges and used red bias hem facing to enclose the raw edges, tacking it down to the flatlining all around the hem (so much for saving time). The white flatlining is less noticeable now, but can still be seen if the tail flips at all. I don't think I care enough to add the full lining, though, and nobody else really notices unless I point it out to them.

The right front darts turned out slightly bigger than the left ones, but it fits so well it really doesn't seem to matter. I didn't bother inserting boning, since it's practically vacuum-sealed to my corset and because I didn't have time.

Underneath is the Laughing Moon short bustle, out of rainbow cotton with net-interlined ruffles for extra pouf, and a pale pink petticoat with a 2 inch ruffle. The taffeta bustles so well I didn't need any more support. Also, I made the TV Chemise, sleeveless, in ivory sheeting with two tucks and ruffled eyelet at the hem.

Finishing off the dress were my black opera gloves, a pretty costume bracelet, black 3.5 inch pumps, and black nylon stockings with red backseams. The stockings echo the piping on the dress.

This dress is also extremely fun to dance in, since it's shorter but still bustled in back. And it makes my hips look awesome. :)

Happy New Year everyone!
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Re: TV 462/428 hybrid for a Steampunk Party

Postby Heather » Sat Dec 31, 2011 5:20 pm

You look terrific! And the dress is so cute!

A bit late, but the next time you need to adjust the shoulder of Lapel/collar pattern..... Drop the entire neckline along with the top shoulder line. That way the curve will stay the same and you won't need to adjust the collar at all.
MaryGode
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Re: TV 462/428 hybrid for a Steampunk Party

Postby MaryGode » Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:25 am

That is so. freaking. cute! Image
Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society. ~MarkTwain
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Re: TV 462/428 hybrid for a Steampunk Party

Postby gretagretchen » Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:48 pm

That outfit and you look totally adorable. I have often thought about the shorter bustled skirt but I always wondered if it really would look OK. Now I'm determined to try it.
Aka Wilhelmina Frame, Editrix de Mode, steampunkchronicle.com
Andrea L
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Re: TV 462/428 hybrid for a Steampunk Party

Postby Andrea L » Sun Jan 01, 2012 5:15 pm

I love the dress! That's a great example of using Victorian clothing for something new and modern, and that dress would blend into so many events! I especially love the piping on the back seams. I'm totally stealing that for my next project. And maybe my current one.

I cracked up at the Australian accent guy. At least he was a nice drunk. ^_^
Tiffers
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Re: TV 462/428 hybrid for a Steampunk Party

Postby Tiffers » Tue Jan 03, 2012 1:48 pm

HBB, you are gorgeous :D Your dress is fab too!

Happy new year!

Tiffers xx
kellydofc
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Re: TV 462/428 hybrid for a Steampunk Party

Postby kellydofc » Sun Jan 08, 2012 9:58 pm

The whole outfit looks fab! Great work!

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