Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Get how to's and suggestions for making your dream gowns.
Andrea L
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 212
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:51 pm
Location: Florissant, Missouri

Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Postby Andrea L » Sat Jul 30, 2011 12:04 pm

Yeah, I just made up a word. It's what I do sometimes. :lol:

I'm in the planning stages of a dark red and black winter outfit for next year (I gave in to the black and red!). So far I just have the fabric, a medium weight cotton twill, with no real details in mind, but I'm leaning towards Natural Form this time, and I wanted to try my hand at outterwear too. I have a hoodless kinsale cloak made out of heavy twill that I made for an outfit last year, but for next year I want to make something that won't hide my whole outfit and will complement it. The TV patterns have a wrap/mantle in the Early Bustle and a coat in the Late Bustle. Which one would be better for NF? And how would I be able to adjust the pattern so it's for a dress without a bustle?

I take that back. I have been looking into details. Namely these details on the bottom of this skirt:

http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/c ... &hi=0&ov=0

Question: would medium weight twill be ruchable? It's about the same weight of twill that you would use for corset lining, not the super heavy stuff, but enough to have some weight.


EDIT: After I posted this, I thought "hm, why don't you just go downstairs and ruche some of the fabric, genius?" So I did, and it looks wonderful. So nevermind! You can ruche twill! *goes to stare at the sexy red fabric some more*.
rajani
Costume Afflicted
Posts: 56
Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2011 8:47 pm
Location: Way out west :)

Re: Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Postby rajani » Sun Jul 31, 2011 8:48 am

>>EDIT: After I posted this, I thought "hm, why don't you just go downstairs and ruche some of the fabric, genius?" So I did, and it looks wonderful. So nevermind! You can ruche twill! *goes to stare at the sexy red fabric some more*.<<

LOL.... glad to know. I love the picture of this skirt. I've filed it away in my "ideas" folder and might try this on a future dress. :)
Andrea L
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 212
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:51 pm
Location: Florissant, Missouri

Re: Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Postby Andrea L » Sun Jul 31, 2011 12:58 pm

Since we're on the topic of coats too...here's one from sometime in the 1880s from that same site. Look at that lining!

http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/c ... &hi=0&ov=0

http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/c ... &hi=0&ov=0

Looking at the side view...is this a bustle coat or not? I'm not sure since there isn't a bustle on the mannequin.

I love looking at actual dresses of the era because not only do you get to see the construction, to a certain extent, you get to see what was really done and really worn then, versus fashion plates, which are stylized. And the actual dress makes me wonder "who wore that and what did she wear it for?" Pretty exciting.
Andrea L
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 212
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:51 pm
Location: Florissant, Missouri

Re: Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Postby Andrea L » Sat Aug 06, 2011 10:10 pm

I've decided I'm going with the coat rather than the cloak (after more research, I think I found both, but the coat's more versatile in that I could wear it with normal clothing).

How can I alter TV560 for a NF dress?

Also along that vein, are there any historically appropriate forms of covering the ears for women during cold weather? Long story short, I can't be outside without ear protection in cold weather, otherwise I'll get a wicked earache. If there isn't, is there a way to fudge on something that might have been available at the time? I'm not being a super stickler about historical accuracy, but I don't want it to be horribly out of place and ruin the effect of the whole outfit.
Heather
Site Admin
Posts: 5897
Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 6:03 pm
Location: Riverside, CA
Contact:

Re: Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Postby Heather » Sun Aug 07, 2011 8:26 am

It wouldn't take much to make TV560 be Natural Form. It would just be a matter of slimming down the back below the waist, and removing the pleats. Maybe leave the center back pleat if you wanted.

For your ears, I think a fur or velvet bonnet that covers your ears would be fine. Or a fur ear muff. Or maybe a knitted scarf. I am sure Victorians had similar problems, though I can't seem to find any fashion plates depicting any type of ear covering. I would go with something reasonable and not even question it.
Andrea L
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 212
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:51 pm
Location: Florissant, Missouri

Re: Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Postby Andrea L » Sun Aug 07, 2011 2:55 pm

Thanks! I figured it wasn't something complicated to change it, but seeing as I haven't bought the pattern yet, I didn't have anything to reference. Depending on how this goes, I may make another coat to wear over normal, bulkier winter wear if the one I make for my outfit is too slim in the torso for that. I've been dying to have a coat like this for years, so why not make it? :D

I like the scarf idea, maybe drape the scarf over my head and ears and drape it around my neck shoulders and wear a hat or bonnet over that. Ah, I'm getting excited over the project, and it's not even fully planned out yet! Too bad I don't have time to make it to wear it this winter...
LidiaBest
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 107
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2008 7:02 pm
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana

Re: Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Postby LidiaBest » Tue Aug 09, 2011 1:41 pm

I have the same problem with needing to cover my ears in cold weather. I made a baschlik, which is basically a hood with a scarf attached. I wear mine to school to keep the wind out of my ears when walking around campus and it's amazing. It's acceptable to wear them on their own or you can put it over a more fashionable hat.

Here's a rough pattern for one:
http://s346.photobucket.com/albums/p436 ... attern.jpg

Most of the measurements can be fudged however you like. I made mine out of velvet (which stops the wind amazingly well) and left the back seam (the 22 inch seam) open for about 8 inches on the bottom so it would have two points in back. I also made my with point scarf ends and put tassels at each point and on the point of the hood. I do wish that I had made mine with three layers of fabric instead of just two.

It's historically accurate to put trim and/or lace or embroidery around the edges.

I don't think that baschliks were terribly fashionable during the natural form period, but they were used regardless.
Lidia Best
Heather
Site Admin
Posts: 5897
Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 6:03 pm
Location: Riverside, CA
Contact:

Re: Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Postby Heather » Tue Aug 09, 2011 1:48 pm

Ooh, yes, I totally forgot about those things. I think I have seen patterns for them in the Natural Form period, though I think they are more popular in late 1860's - early 1870's.
Andrea L
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 212
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:51 pm
Location: Florissant, Missouri

Re: Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Postby Andrea L » Tue Aug 09, 2011 5:43 pm

That's an idea, Lidia! Do you happen to have any pictures of the one you made? I've been trying to search for one, but I keep getting military baschliks and the like. If I can decorate it enough, then I won't be too sad about not being able to wear the hat I wanted to wear with it. Or I can make the hat and use the outfit as a fall/winter dress with varying degrees of headwear.

*sighs* What I do to be semi period correct...
Andrea L
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 212
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:51 pm
Location: Florissant, Missouri

Re: Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Postby Andrea L » Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:39 pm

More research yay! I don't know if that's sarcastic or not...

Anyway! I did more research on baschliks/hoods for post 1960s Victorian Era. I found a few things for Early and Late Bustle and Belle Epoche.

This first one is for 1876, so I can fudge it for Natural Form. It says it's on a "bonnet frame", so I'm not sure if this is over an actual buckram frame or something else. Either way, it should work for what I want to do.
https://patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AG1692

This one is a mantle and a hood, Late Bustle. The hood looks similar to the hood part of the baschlik.
https://patternsoftime.com/proddetail.a ... 001&cat=20

The last one is an 1891 Sleighing Hood, so definitely for cold weather!
https://patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AG1186

I just ordered the first one, so I'll see how it goes. If it works, I guess I'll be posting that too when I eventually get around to making the whole outfit.

Hope this helps!
LidiaBest
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 107
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2008 7:02 pm
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana

Re: Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Postby LidiaBest » Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:51 pm

I did have pictures of my Baschlik before my memory card crapped out on me a few weeks ago!

But it basically looks like this:
http://cgi.ebay.de/Schnittmuster-Baschl ... 0453607807

Or here's a knit version which, aside from the pockets, gives a good idea of what it looks like when worn:

http://the-grab.com/post/293646176/scar ... es-72-35-i
Lidia Best
AnotherBlackSheep
Window Shopper
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat May 07, 2011 2:52 pm

Re: Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Postby AnotherBlackSheep » Sat Nov 26, 2011 9:46 am

EDIT: I just found a similar thread at the link below. But it doesn't answer all of my questions! http://www.trulyvictorian.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6546

I'm reviving this thread because I'd like to make the hood that LidiaBest posted a link to. 1875-ish is the period I'm aiming for. I'm struggling with what fabric to use for it and where to use it (inside or outside). I've noticed that many people use silk to line bonnets and hoods, often quilted with batting for warmth. Wouldn't something like flannel be warmer? Would it be ok to use it?

Also, what about patterns? I've got this great floral print that I'd love to use. I want to show it off so I'm not sure about using it as a lining. Would orange silk be odd for the outside, or should it only be used on the inside?

Of course I'd prefer to wear my new hat, but pending cold weather I guess I wouldn't? What other type of head gear would one use? I'm also in the middle of making a talma/shawl type thingy and wondering if I should just add a hood onto it. Then I could wear my hat and cover my head with the attached hood if necessary? What would be proper?

Here is a link to the fabrics. It's a sunny day, sorry for the bleached out photo.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26583020@N05/6405877841/
Andrea L
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 212
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:51 pm
Location: Florissant, Missouri

Re: Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Postby Andrea L » Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:17 pm

That just reminds me that I haven't posted a picture for my hood yet. What I did for mine was use the pattern that needed a bonnet frame (I think it was in the thread that you reposted in your post). The 1876 Faille Hood. It's essentially like what Lidia suggested except the hood is much bigger so you can pleat it at the front, side, and back of the hood for a more contoured, artistically drapey look.

This is the inside of it attached to the bonnet
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/w ... 0433-1.jpg

And what it looks like on a styrofoam head (the foil was from when I had to press the bonnet so it contoured to the head)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/w ... 0435-1.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/w ... 0436-1.jpg

It doesn't show it that well since it's on a table, but the back part extends further down the neck to the upper back a little, and the scarf part is pretty wide so it thoroughly covers your neck. I used wool flannel for the outter and lining fabric and interlined with cotton flannel. It feels pretty warm to me, but I haven't tried it out yet. I was worried that using batting with so many folds would just be too bulky, otherwise I would have, but I think I'll be fine with this.
AnotherBlackSheep
Window Shopper
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat May 07, 2011 2:52 pm

Re: Natural Form Outterwear and Ruchability (?) of fabric

Postby AnotherBlackSheep » Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:43 pm

Thanks Andrea! I think your hood turned out great. I was going to go with something without any structure, but now I may change my mind. I also have some faux fur that might work well in some capacity. Hmmm....too many choices!

Return to “Dresses, skirts, bodices, everything else.”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests