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TV 416 again

Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 12:50 am
by rangerfeline
Okay, it's late and my brain won't turn over: suppose one is trying to make TV 416 with a back lacing. One must bone the center back, or the lacing will collapse, correct? If so, what about the peplum bit at the bottom -- that is, where does the boning stop? If one bones from the top center back opening all the way to the bottom, won't the peplum lay funny? If one stops boning at the waist, say, what's to keep the peplum part from collapsing? Is there a compromise that I'm not thinking of -- featherweight boning, maybe?
Sorry if I'm not making a lot of sense; I've been at this for a while. The material is a fairly stiff poly taffeta, if it matters, and it's going over my largest (OMFG-sized) bustle, thus the concern about the peplum.
-cat

Re: TV 416 again

Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 6:41 am
by Gemma
I would bone from the top of the back opening to the point where the peplum splits - looks like maybe an inch below the waist, and stitch across the bottom of the channel to keep the bone in place. Then just close the peolum with hooks and eyes.
If you're worried about the peplum lieing flat, could you cut extensions to the center back in the same way as at the side seams, sew the edges of the extended sections together (making sure the extension is wide enough to let you slip the bodice on over your head) and add hooks and eyes (or poppers) to hold the underneath folds in place when its on. That way, you would have three points where the fabric could spread in order to lie flat on the bustle.
Don't know it that makes sense written down- needs a picture or hand waving really!
Good luck! Gemma

Re: TV 416 again

Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 10:02 am
by Heather
You want to extend the boning as far as your lacing goes. So if you are lacing to the bottom of the peplum, then you need to bone to the bottom. It shouldn't really effect how the peplum lays. You can also stop the lacing and the boning about 1" below the level of the side pleats and just leave the rest open. Lacing on your bodice isn't tight like on a corset, so there shouldn't be big tension issues. It should just lace closed, snug an even.

Re: TV 416 again

Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 11:22 am
by rangerfeline
Thank you both -- now that I've had a decent night's sleep, this all makes perfect sense. I like Gemma's idea of closing the peplum with hooks or snaps, and I like Heather's idea of not having to put the bodice on over my head (not the easiest thing to do without assistance). I'll post pics when it's finished!