question about fabric

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katharine
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question about fabric

Postby katharine » Fri Jul 02, 2010 11:52 am

I'm planning to make a dress based on one in Dover's Harper's Bazar 1867-1898. The description of the dress says it is made of cotton sateen. Does anyone know if cotton sateen made now is the same as the type they had in the 19th century? I know muslin made today is different than what they had in the 1800's, so I was wondering if the same is true of cotton sateen. Thanks for any input.

Kathleen
Erin
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Re: question about fabric

Postby Erin » Tue Jul 06, 2010 7:22 am

Hi Kathleen

As near as I can tell, our sateen is very close to that used by the Victorians. A word of caution: as with any other fabric, avoid stretchy stuff! Nearly all the sateen I've seen recently has some small stretch component, 3% or some such. Otherwise, it's a lovely material with a soft hand that shouldn't lose its sheen when washed. Take care!
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Tansy
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Re: question about fabric

Postby Tansy » Tue Jul 06, 2010 12:55 pm

You probably also want to make sure that the sateen you use isn't too thin. Some of the modern stuff, although without stretch, is made for quilting and is pretty flimsy for most dresses.
katharine
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 186
Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2005 1:20 am
Location: Pacific Northwest

Re: question about fabric

Postby katharine » Wed Jul 07, 2010 11:22 pm

Thank you Erin and Tansy for your replies. It's good to know that the cotton sateen available now will be okay for my dress. :D

I was looking on the Fashion Fabrics Club website and noticed they had a lot of stretch cotton sateens. There were a few that were not stretch and were suitable for dresses, but I didn't see any patterns I liked. I guess I'll have to go into the "big city" and check out what is there. I'll steer clear of the thin stuff. Thanks again.

Kathleen
Erin
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Re: question about fabric

Postby Erin » Thu Jul 08, 2010 7:43 am

Not trying to be snarky, but I've had quite a lot of luck with lightweight fabrics, and I think you should be able to use the sateen regardless of its weight. The dress I made for our Spring Picnic this year was entirely made of sheer fabric, both polonaise and skirt. I knew it would be hot, so I gave myself a little more fitting ease, which reduced the strain on the fabric, and any place that there would be even the slightest strain, I flatlined. But even then, I only used a lightweight cotton muslin to flatline. Many sheer dresses, including two in my own collection, have made it through the ages, so we know the Victorians used lightweight fabric. It's just important to make sure that, when you do, you leave enough ease for movement, reinforce as necessary, and use a seam that is appropriate for the texture of the fabric. Should you want to use the sateen in a high stress, very fitted garment, simply flatline it with something more substantial, like twill. If it needs body, but not weight, flatline with organza. Thanks to Heather and her wonderful advice over the years, I fear no fabric, I just flatline to get what I want out of it.
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katharine
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 186
Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2005 1:20 am
Location: Pacific Northwest

Re: question about fabric

Postby katharine » Thu Jul 08, 2010 11:28 am

Thanks, Erin! I'll keep your advice in mind when I go fabric hunting. :)

I'm going to use TV460 bodice, TV362 overskirt and TV261 skirt. It's amazing how similar these are to the dress in Harper's Bazar. I'm hoping I can find cotton sateen with a similar pattern.

Best wishes,
Kathleen

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