The 1870 Day dress diary

Get how to's and suggestions for making your dream gowns.
HighButtonBoots
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The 1870 Day dress diary

Postby HighButtonBoots » Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:55 pm

Hi again everyone!

After another trip to Joann's and much thinking, I have decided to make the day dress I designed first, rather than the evening gown. There's a Victorian festival in September in a town somewhat near me, so I'd love to have this done for then.

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I've attempted to use Photoshop to show what colours I'll be using....yes, I know it looks horrible. :oops: It will be made of a peachy yellow silk from Joann's, with purple moire as the vest front and a dark ink moire for the cuffs and lapels. The "chemisette" will actually just be a simple white gathered shirtwaist that I can use with other outfits.

I'm currently stalled on the hoop....I bought polyurethane tubing to use for the boning, and it slid in the casings fine. But it doesn't want to stay in the proper shape--with just the weight of the ruffled green petticoat on it, the back collapses inward. :x So that means I can't return the cut tubing, and now I have to buy the proper steel and connectors, for about $50. Of course. :bang: I don't know of anywhere to buy the steel for less than normal price. At least I get my paycheck tomorrow.

This colour combination occured to me the other day, because I can't find any more of the light purple moire than the 5.5 yards I have, and I want to use it for something. I have 13+ yards of the yellow silk, so I'll have plenty to play around with for a hat and parasol. :D
Bookwyrm
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Postby Bookwyrm » Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:04 pm

Oh, la. I love blue and yellow.
HighButtonBoots
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Postby HighButtonBoots » Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:14 pm

Thanks Bookwyrm. :) I actually don't know what colour the ink moire is supposed to be; it hasn't gotten here yet. It's supposed to have purplish undertones, though.
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Postby diana » Sat Apr 25, 2009 12:39 pm

We are expecting to see you as one of the great new fashion designers soon! Move over, Dolce!
Diana

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HighButtonBoots
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Postby HighButtonBoots » Tue May 05, 2009 11:25 am

I got the moire a few days ago...it's a pretty medium blue. So I'll be doing the vest in purple, lapels and cuffs in blue, and the main panels in the silk, as I said before. I think it'll look very nice together.

Yesterday I thought I had finished the pleating and waistband....no, of course not. :roll: I forgot to add the pleats in the side back panels, resulting in a ton of fabric at the back and a diagonal wrinkle on the side back panels. So I got to remove the waistband, redo the pleating, and then resew it all. This was after I had gotten the two sets of hooks and bars sew on very securely, of course, though I was luckily able to work around them without ripping them off. It looks nice now, and I can't wait to get home from school so I can try it on and see how much better it will drape.

I think I'm just going to use some 60s deadstock hem-facing bias from my teacher's stash to finish the hem...I really don't want to mess with making facings right now. I'm still unsure if I want to keep the train or not--I already found a small oil spot on the back that must have happened when I put it on the dress form. On the bright side, though, I found out that we have pleating boards at my work, so I'll be able to do some cool pleating for the parasol and hat.


Heather, is the binding on the lower edges, shown in the illustration and on the Vest Basque bodice you made, required? I'm just curious, and I won't be lining this bodice so I'll be doing some form of binding on the edges anyway.

Thanks!
Heather
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Postby Heather » Tue May 05, 2009 1:55 pm

No, in fact in the pattern it is finished like all the others, with a full lining. I did the binding because because the original illustration had the binding. It was very easy to do and looks nice. But you can finish it in any manner that suits you.
HighButtonBoots
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Postby HighButtonBoots » Sat May 09, 2009 9:31 pm

I finished hemming the skirt!

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I love the back. :D

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I think I need a petti made from the Grand Parlour Skirt pattern...this petti is so heavy it pushes the hoop forward and interferes a bit with it collapsing. The 18 foot hem means a lot of extra fabric at the back, especially with all the ruffles. Plus you can see from the above photo that the ruffles create a bit of a "hump" at the bottom; a fully ruffled petti would be needed to prevent this.

And in motion:
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And sitting:
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I have to completely lift the hoop onto the back of the chair, although the hoop collapsed a little more willingly with the skirt over it. I tried to make it fly up into my face, and it semi-collapsed, although the front hoops still poufed out over my lap. I need more practise, I surmise.

Thanks Heather, I got the 1872 Basque pattern on Wednesday, and I can't wait to get started! I have to make the waist to go under it first, though.
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Postby Lioness » Tue May 19, 2009 6:52 am

OH MY GOODNESS! That is one STUNNING SKIRT! Dear me, you are quickly becoming a Victorian Fashion STAR! You have done a fantastic job on that. I cannot wait to see the bodice for this one.

What wig do you plan on using? A parasol AND a HAT! WOW! I am excited to see this all completed.

Pretty soon you will be giving everyone else lessons on making gowns.
Lioness
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Postby julievictorian » Tue May 19, 2009 9:09 am

its fantastic! what a gorgeous colour! I've never been a huge fan of hoop style skirts but this could change my mind.....
HighButtonBoots
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Postby HighButtonBoots » Sun May 24, 2009 10:17 pm

Thank you! :) I appreciate the compliments, I only wish I was able to work on the shirtwaist right now--the choir concert's on Wednesday and I am running out of time to finish these bustle dresses! :shock: I will finish, but I need to work very hard tomorrow to ensure it.

Lioness, I'm not sure what wig I'll be using...I might use the human hair wig I have from Lady Fleur, put up in a bun with a bunch of synthetic braided extensions from the local beauty shop. I need to research 1870s hairstyles and decide what will look best on me--time to pull out Harper's Bazaar again.

The parasol will be the last thing to do...I need the hat done first, after the rest of the dress is done. A new petti is on the list as well (I have an entire sheet set in medium green cotton, so the Grand Parlour pattern, completely ruffled), and I think I want to make a more period-correct set of drawers without elastic. I also would like a few sets of thigh-high stockings with garters, since I'm getting really annoyed with the knee highs I've been using.

The hat pattern I've decided on is Denise Nadine's Sara. While it has a higher crown than most 1870s hats, I found an 1871 plate that looks very close (and I would prefer a taller hat this time anyway):
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If I find myself getting too close to my deadline, I'll likely just order the assembled frame and cover it, to save my time and sanity.

Time for sleep, it's after 1 AM here.
Alex
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Postby HighButtonBoots » Thu May 28, 2009 7:33 pm

I went to Joann's today and found this really pretty striped calico for $3 per yard. It's several different shades of green and I think it would make fabulous bias cut ruffles for the new petticoat....

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I *hope* there will be enough, as they only had 3.5 yards; I need to fully ruffle the petti so I'll end up with around 5 rows of ruffles at 8 inches wide. According to the bias table at Dread Pirate Rodgers, I'll end up with about 44.3 feet of fabric to use....I think I'll do a 1.5 to 1 ratio for the ruffles this time, to save fabric.

Heather, what is the Grand Parlour skirt's hem circumference? If I end up needing more fabric than I have, I can alternate each flounce between the striped fabric and the solid green sheeting I'm using for the base fabric. Or I can search my other Joann's for the same fabric, I guess.
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Postby Bookwyrm » Fri May 29, 2009 4:39 pm

Did you see my note to Heather about continuous bias? Here's my diagram:

http://trulyvictorian.com/gallery2/main ... temId=2564

With a little modification you can do it without cutting your yardage more than once. Start with your striped fabric (all washed and everything). At the 'slash diagonally' step, just cut the right triangle so that one edge is the entire width of your fabric, and the other is the same length up the selvage. Then one piece will be a triangle, and one piece will be most of a rectangle. Then sew the cut off triangle so the cut end matches with the cut end of the yardage (your stripes should be perfectly continuous and the shape should now be a large parallelegram). Then mark the bias widths you want (8 inches plus any hems) and sew the selvages together so it's a tube, being sure to stagger one strip so that you've marked a spiral.

Er. If that's not clear, I'll draw you up a picture. It's really simple, but hard to describe.
Erin
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Postby Erin » Fri May 29, 2009 5:33 pm

My very favorite method is the Dread Rodgers Continuous Bias Tape Method. I listed the .pdf version so it's easy to print out. I keep a copy with my sewing stuff at all times :)
:fence:
HighButtonBoots
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Postby HighButtonBoots » Fri May 29, 2009 6:18 pm

Thanks Bookwyrm. Actually I've used the Dread Pirate method repeatedly since I learned about it while making the green 1895 petticoat--I used it to make all that crazy bias binding. :) I love it and hate making bias any way else now. The only downfall to the method is that you can't easily use a rotary cutter without endangering the rest of the fabric underneath the layer you're cutting.

And I've never done bias ruffles before, just straight grain ones. I'm interested to see how they lay in comparison.
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Postby m d b » Sat May 30, 2009 4:25 am

Stunning skirt :) I have the same trouble with my Spanish renaissance skirts and farthingales ;) I am thinking of putting some weights at the front of my skirts or at the front of my farthingale.

Bias striped flounces are just scrummy :)
[url=http://www.arrayedindreams.com]arrayedindreams.com[/url]
HighButtonBoots
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Postby HighButtonBoots » Wed Jun 03, 2009 8:58 am

Thanks m d b!

I just placed an order for the 1893 Blouse Waist pattern....well, because I felt lazy this time (again) :roll: and didn't feel like having to make up the assembly process by drafting my own shirtwaist pattern. Besides, I've wanted that pattern for a long time!

I have some beautiful pale yellow sheeting I'd love to use....there isn't that much left so I might not be able to. For this dress I won't be using the poufed sleeve, of course, so I *might* be able to squeeze it out of that remaining fabric. Otherwise I have a nice black-print-on cream sheet that would look fantastic as well.

And I ordered both a pair of the purple velvet Whimsey and the black/white Flora boots that Lady Fleur posted on the Belle Alley! :D I can't wait for them to get here!
HighButtonBoots
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Postby HighButtonBoots » Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:28 pm

Heather, your patterns have just reached a new level of awesome in my mind:

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My existing TV170s all fit over the elliptical hoop--I don't have to make a new petticoat with the Grand Parlour pattern! :D

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The skirt has a smoother line now, I really like it.

I also have the mockup made of the Blouse Waist:

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I can see that I need to add width to the shoulder seams, and also smooth out the waist seam a bit. I lengthened all the pieces by 2 5/8 inches, and the waist is better but I think I need to shorten it just a tad. I also need to go up one size for the front though--I cut a size E, and added another 1/2 inch to the front allowance just in case. I ended up needing the extra, or it wouldn't have closed properly at mid bust. I don't know why I keep getting too-small results in the bust, I guess it's due to the nuances of the corseted and padded male body.

Also, Heather, there's the line of creasing across my shoulder blades--would I take care of that by taking in the shoulder seam by widening the front seam allowance?

Thanks Heather!
Last edited by HighButtonBoots on Mon Jun 29, 2009 8:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.
HighButtonBoots
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Postby HighButtonBoots » Mon Jun 29, 2009 8:40 pm

Heather? I don't want to feel like I'm being a bit bothersome--did you miss my last post? I have some free time on Tuesday and hope to get some progress made on the Blouse Waist.

Thanks very much!
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Postby Heather » Mon Jun 29, 2009 10:25 pm

I'm sorry, I did miss this post! Please feel free to bump up a post if I don't answer in a day or two.

Love all the petticoats, and the skirt looks great over you hoop.

I think you need more room in the hip, and this is causing the wrinkles at the waist. Pick out the side and side back seams up to the waist and see where the fabric wants to spread. You may also need to let the darts out below the waist as well. A hoop skirt will often widen out the front too.

I am thinking that the shoulder blade wrinkle might be caused but the hip/waist creeping upwards (caused by too tight hip area) rather than the upper back sinking downwards. The shoulder looks fine to me. Or now that I'm looking at the front, I see wrinkles at the front of the armpit too. This might indicate that the armpit is too high, and the whole bodice is being shoved down by your arms. Maybe let out the shoulders slightly? I remember you had this problem with your first bodice, but I wasn't sure if the problem was the t-shirt pushing down, or your arm? If it is your arm, then try cutting the armhole a little lower. Or let the shoulders out a tad to allow the whole bodice to drop. Going up one size for the front will also add a little bit over the shoulder, so that by itself might fix the problem. so fix the hip and look at the armpit level, and let me know if that does not fix blade problem.

On a side note, you might want to widen the shoulder, over the point of you shoulder. For this time period, you want a slightly dropped shoulder. Unlike the 1890's of your previous bodice which needed the high shoulder line you have now. I can also see the you will need to cut the neckline down a little in the front. This time period should have a nice comfortable neckline that just hits at the top of your collar bone. Be sure to leave allowance when you trim it away.

Looks great, keep me posted!!
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Postby Lioness » Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:16 am

That really looks GREAT!! Keep up the wonderful work.
Lioness

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