TV491,291

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Quallus
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TV491,291

Postby Quallus » Tue Sep 27, 2016 7:31 am

Would the TV 495 Sleeve option 1 (moderate mutton sleeve) still be ok to use for 1898 or is it better to use the TV 460 Cuirass bodice sleeve? Planning on attaching either sleeve to the TV 491 Blouse Waist.
Have been looking at a lot of fashion plates for 98 but it is really hard to tell (for me at least), which sleeve would be more suitable. Planning on using TV 291 for the skirt and if there is enough fabric left the plan is to make a vest as well (pattern from the Vintage pattern library).
What do you think?
Thanks for your suggestions and input!

:bounce:
Heather
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Re: TV491,291

Postby Heather » Tue Sep 27, 2016 9:31 am

The sleeves are changing a lot in 1898, so you see some different shapes going on. From the high puff, tight arm sleeve to the fuller as you go up from the elbow. I was just looking at sleeve for this year for research as I redraft the 1898 Eton jacket into CAD. I don't think the 1880s sleeve is really big enough, so maybe not use that one. Though you still could if you like it. The view 1 from 495 should work, but it is a little bit fuller starting at the elbow.

Oh, I just had a thought! Are you up for some pattern manipulation? Based on the patterns from the period, I think the 1880s sleeve could be made very stylish. (Thank you, BTW, for mention this one, cause while trying to come up with an easy way to do this, I didn't think to start with this sleeve.)

WIth the outer sleeve piece, at the top of the sleeve seams, continue out the same curve for about 3-4". Do both the front and the back seam. This will make the seams longer and the top wider. Then redraw the top curve of the sleeve head in a big round shape from the new seam ends. Adding maybe 2-3" in height at the center top. When sewing the innner sleeve to the outer sleeve, gather the top 6" of the outer sleeve seem to fit the inner sleeve seam length. Then just gather the sleeve head to fit the armhole.

Ok, I need to go try this myself!
Heather
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Re: TV491,291

Postby Heather » Tue Sep 27, 2016 9:42 am

Oh, I just realized the downside to my plan. The back sleeve seam on the 1890s sleeves is tucked under the arm more, where the 1880s back sleeve seam it a bit more exposed and come higher up the armscyle. This might be problematic. But, I think starting the armscye gathers below the seam, instead of keeping them only on the outer sleeve head, might work well enough to counter the issue. Not a perfect solution, but workable.
Quallus
Inquiring Mind
Posts: 225
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2015 2:06 pm

Re: TV491,291

Postby Quallus » Tue Sep 27, 2016 11:07 am

Hm. I thought of possibly manipulating the moderate mutton sleeve. For the mockup I cut size A (my measurement being 16.5). I like it but thought it needed less volume at the top. Thought of just "erasing" some of it or keep the sleeve cap from the cuirass sleeve (which for me is size C for me) and tighten it up past the bicep.
I noticed all the changes in the sleeves and that is why I asked. Guess I play around a bit and see what comes out.

Thank you!!!!! :)

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