Maternity wear

Have an idea but you just need someone else to agree (or disagree) be fore you go ahead as planned? Here is the place for feedback.
Madamekat
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Maternity wear

Postby Madamekat » Tue Jan 08, 2013 8:39 am

*EDIT: I miscarried at 6.5 weeks*
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Well, I'm pregnant! So happy! But now I need to adjust my costuming wardrobe to accomodate my growing belly. I'm only 5.5 weeks, but I already have a small bump...enough that my very fitted bodices don't fit anymore. I could corset up and suck it in and get into it, but that wouldn't be comfortable. I have a ball to attend this weekend, and have just enough time to make a new bodice to match a skirt I already have. Yay for keeping leftover fabric!

I love the bustle era. Costuming in Civil War would be easier as I've seen lots of examples of 1860s maternity wear, but I'm just not an 1860s girl. Give me my bustles, Baby! But I thought maybe I can use the tricks from the 1860s maternity wear and use it on an 1880s bodice. But I need help, 'cause I admit I have no idea what I'm doing or what shape I need to create. Here's my "expanding belly" inspiration:

Image

and here's the bodice that is inspiring me. I'd like to do the center panel in a gathered/drawstring so that I can let it out as I get bigger. I am staring at the TV 463 center front panel and wondering how to cut my piece to make it right. Any ideas?

Image

Here is my complete Historic Maternity Wear Pinterst board for anyone wanting to see extant examples
http://pinterest.com/victoriankat/historical-maternity-clothes/
Last edited by Madamekat on Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"I firmly believe that every human being has a duty to make himself as attractive as possible," Erté wrote. "Clothes are a kind of alchemy; they can transform human beings into things of beauty or ugliness."
Miss Cindy
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Miss Cindy » Tue Jan 08, 2013 9:12 am

Totally just a whim, but you could make the center piece so it is gathered from the top to the bottom, but instead of permanent threads where you will change the most, use the drawstring on the inside.
Congratulations, by the way! :)
and where the Spirit of the Lord is, there is liberty. 2 Cor 3:17b
Madamekat
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Madamekat » Tue Jan 08, 2013 9:21 am

Miss Cindy wrote:Totally just a whim, but you could make the center piece so it is gathered from the top to the bottom, but instead of permanent threads where you will change the most, use the drawstring on the inside.
Congratulations, by the way! :)


Exactly the plan, Cindy! So glad I was making sense! My question is really about shape and width. I'm wondering where the fullness needs to be (more at the bottom? Equal top and bottom? Doesn't matter because I'll adjust each section with the drawstrings?) and how wide to make the panel and what shape should the bottom edge take so that it looks right when cinched? I can just never picture these things.
"I firmly believe that every human being has a duty to make himself as attractive as possible," Erté wrote. "Clothes are a kind of alchemy; they can transform human beings into things of beauty or ugliness."
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Frank815 » Tue Jan 08, 2013 9:56 am

Maybe try adding more seam allowance to the side seams? I like the idea of the drawstring front!

CONGRATS!!!!! :bounce:
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Madamekat
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Madamekat » Tue Jan 08, 2013 10:00 am

Frank815 wrote:Maybe try adding more seam allowance to the side seams? I like the idea of the drawstring front!

CONGRATS!!!!! :bounce:


Yes, Frank, you have exactly what I have in mind. I'm just wondering how much to add. 10 inches? 20 inches? And should I add it evenly from bust to hip and count on the drawstrings to help with shape or should I add more to the belly area? I'm just clueless!
"I firmly believe that every human being has a duty to make himself as attractive as possible," Erté wrote. "Clothes are a kind of alchemy; they can transform human beings into things of beauty or ugliness."
Miss Cindy
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Miss Cindy » Tue Jan 08, 2013 10:21 am

Every lady is different in growth during pregnancy. I know that I did gain maybe one to two inches in the breast, but my belling probably got close to double in size. My babies were huge. I had a few people thinking I was carrying twins. So, really, it will be a total guess for you. After the first one, then you will at least know what to aim for. I am sorry I cannot help more than that.
and where the Spirit of the Lord is, there is liberty. 2 Cor 3:17b
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Heather » Tue Jan 08, 2013 10:30 am

I am thinking you should add more to the waist, and less to the bust. And the best way to go would be to cut-and-spread the pattern in the middle. If you want to make the waist wider, then I would make 2 cuts in the piece to help you get the right lines.

I would cut and spread the top about 4" total, or 2" split into 2 cuts. For the waist, I would spread them out more, say 6-10". IF you add too much, it will be hard to gather it all tight enough to fit now, but you want enough to let out for later.
Madamekat
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Madamekat » Tue Jan 08, 2013 10:37 am

Thanks, Cindy! Yes, everyone seems to expand differently, so it can be hard to say.

Thanks, Heather! So If I'm picturing this right... it would be sort of an inverted V in the end? Since my CF panel will be one piece and not buttoned up the center, should I make a mock up of the CF piece and then use that as my pattern piece?
"I firmly believe that every human being has a duty to make himself as attractive as possible," Erté wrote. "Clothes are a kind of alchemy; they can transform human beings into things of beauty or ugliness."
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Heather » Tue Jan 08, 2013 11:16 am

Oh, ok, I was think you would would keep the center front opening. It still all works the same anyway, but in this case, I would add 1/2" to the side seam to give you an underlap at the side. And then, since you already have the overlap at the center, add only 3" at the top for the spread. I tired to draw a diagram earlier, but it came out awful and deleted it. But I guess I will try again.

Back in a couple minutes.
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Dale » Tue Jan 08, 2013 11:18 am

I have a suggestion that incorporates another idea, with the gathering, and it could reduce the bulk of having a ton of gathered fabric.

You could size and cut the extra fabric, and button it into the jacket on the inside, with some gathering to help it fit. Then as you progress in the pregnancy, just move the buttons, or have additional rows of buttons already sewn in to save you time in case you "jump" in size quickly. Or you could even to hook-and-eye tape if that is easier. Does that make sense?

What about your skirt(s)?
Dale

By the way - CONGRATULATIONS!!!
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Heather » Tue Jan 08, 2013 11:49 am

Ok, this one didn't come out any better, but hopefully it will get the idea across?

gathers.jpg
gathers.jpg (33.04 KiB) Viewed 16692 times


Make the spread at the top oa each cut 1.5" wide and then 3-5" wide at the hem. Then cut with the center front on a fold.
Madamekat
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Madamekat » Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:44 am

Oh, Heather, thank you thank you thank you!! There is just nothing out there for pregnant bustle era fans and I was lost.
"I firmly believe that every human being has a duty to make himself as attractive as possible," Erté wrote. "Clothes are a kind of alchemy; they can transform human beings into things of beauty or ugliness."
Madamekat
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Madamekat » Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:48 am

Dale wrote:I have a suggestion that incorporates another idea, with the gathering, and it could reduce the bulk of having a ton of gathered fabric.

You could size and cut the extra fabric, and button it into the jacket on the inside, with some gathering to help it fit. Then as you progress in the pregnancy, just move the buttons, or have additional rows of buttons already sewn in to save you time in case you "jump" in size quickly. Or you could even to hook-and-eye tape if that is easier. Does that make sense?

What about your skirt(s)?
Dale

By the way - CONGRATULATIONS!!!


Thanks so much, Dale!

Yes, I considered that as well. I just wasn't sure how it would look having extra fabric underneath only on one side. I'm not worried about skirts YET. I can fudge those closures with a safety pin and a bit of creative fabric scraps. But when I really get too big, I'll have to make a few new gowns for the purpose. I saw Anna Karenina the other week and there are three maternity gowns in that movie. I know they aren't necessarily historically accurate, but I'm not a re-enactor, so I feel ok stealing their ideas!
"I firmly believe that every human being has a duty to make himself as attractive as possible," Erté wrote. "Clothes are a kind of alchemy; they can transform human beings into things of beauty or ugliness."
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby elensari » Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:49 am

The bustle coat pattern, being half fitting, might be a future alternative dress base as well.
~kelly
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Dale » Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:58 pm

I was actually meaning to have the extra fabric on BOTH sides, not one. That way the excess is evenly distributed and not overly bulky in front, which can be gathered without looking cumbersome. And, as mentioned, you either move the buttons or sew additional rows in so you're ready. The hook-and-eye tape would save on bulk even more and could already be in place on the dart seams so they will hidden. Post what you decide.
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Madamekat » Thu Jan 10, 2013 6:28 am

Dale wrote:I was actually meaning to have the extra fabric on BOTH sides, not one. That way the excess is evenly distributed and not overly bulky in front, which can be gathered without looking cumbersome. And, as mentioned, you either move the buttons or sew additional rows in so you're ready. The hook-and-eye tape would save on bulk even more and could already be in place on the dart seams so they will hidden. Post what you decide.


Ooooh, ok, I see now! That does sound like a great idea! I need to decide today...ack!
"I firmly believe that every human being has a duty to make himself as attractive as possible," Erté wrote. "Clothes are a kind of alchemy; they can transform human beings into things of beauty or ugliness."
Madamekat
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby Madamekat » Fri Jan 11, 2013 8:56 am

elensari wrote:The bustle coat pattern, being half fitting, might be a future alternative dress base as well.
~kelly


Yes, I was wondering that! I'm so glad you said so!
"I firmly believe that every human being has a duty to make himself as attractive as possible," Erté wrote. "Clothes are a kind of alchemy; they can transform human beings into things of beauty or ugliness."
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Re: I'm pregnant! Yay...oh, my bodices no longer fit...help!

Postby katharine » Fri Jan 18, 2013 3:24 pm

I haven't posted here for months and months, and I don't have any suggestions for you, but I just had to send my congratulations. My first thought was that if you have a girl, what wonderful Victorian clothes you will be making for her! :D I've enjoyed looking at all the beautiful costumes you've made over the years. Wishing you and the baby the best.

Katharine
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Re: Maternity wear

Postby stealthflower » Sun Feb 10, 2013 7:08 pm

Oh no, Kat, I'm so sorry.
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Re: Maternity wear

Postby Miss Cindy » Sun Feb 10, 2013 8:50 pm

My sincere condolences on your loss, Miss Kat! May God give you comfort.
and where the Spirit of the Lord is, there is liberty. 2 Cor 3:17b

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