Striped Early Bustle Design

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aimeekitty
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Striped Early Bustle Design

Postby aimeekitty » Sun Sep 19, 2010 9:15 am

Hi, folks!

I'm new here. I've been costuming for about 9 years and just started getting more into historical a couple years ago. I've done a couple 18th century, but I wanted to do a Victorian for Dicken's Fair this year. I know this dress design isn't really the period for Dickens, but oh well, I'm just using Dicken's as an excuse to finish my dress.
I'd like my dress to be reasonably period correct, but I'm not a big stickler. I figure it's about the same work to get the details and fabrics pc, as not, so I'd prefer to make them pc.

I wanted to make a dress similar to this 1975:
http://aimeemajor.com/images/temp2/1875apr6.jpg

and I did up a sketch of what I'd like to do:
http://aimeemajor.com/images/temp2/victorianstripe.jpg

I was thinking of using 216 Parisian Trained Skirt and 405 Vest Basque patterns for it. With the 101 bustle and 170 petti (view 1) (thanks Heather!)

The main fabric would be a medium pink and white stripe to generally match this hat I got from Atelier Mela.
http://aimeemajor.com/images/temp2/pinktophat.jpg

The rosettes on the dress would have embroidered Eiffel Towers in them and there would be some embroidery (tbd) on the collar and faux inner vest. The vest would be white, and the collar and ribbons would be a darker pink.

I was hoping to use some type of natural fiber for heat reasons... and was hoping I could find one that would look nice with the design, but wouldn't be super expensive.
My first idea was to use cotton. But I was tempted by using seersucker as well (would that look strange...?)

I'm guessing that I need about 17 yards of the main stripe fabric....? Is that about right?
I'm 6 feet tall and have long legs, so I might need a little more fabric for the skirt and then there's the ruffles and the fact that it's a striped fabric.

What kind of fabric or lace should I get for the standup collar ruffle...?

Do you have any other suggestions?
katharine
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Re: Striped Early Bustle Design

Postby katharine » Thu Sep 23, 2010 12:04 am

Hi aimeekitty. I'm a novice sewer, so can't give you any advice. Just wanted to say what a fabulous ensemble you are planning to make. Hopefully, someone will step up and give you some suggestions soon. There are a lot of knowledgeable people here. Good luck on your project. Be sure to post pictures when you finish.

Katharine
Frank815
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Re: Striped Early Bustle Design

Postby Frank815 » Thu Sep 23, 2010 7:23 am

If you use a cotton, make sure to pre-shrink before construction. You don't want the dress to shrink after you made it. As far as the stand up collar goes, I would try wide horse-hair braid between the lace and neckline, or trying collar canvas( I'm not quite sure where to get it, but I know it exists ). Your design is gorgeous, and I can't wait to see what the finished product will look like :D
My fears behind me, gone are the shadows and doubts. That was then, this is my now...
aimeekitty
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Re: Striped Early Bustle Design

Postby aimeekitty » Sat Sep 25, 2010 8:24 pm

Thanks you guys! I made about half the jacket so far.
Image

Apparently you can get collar canvas at farthingales?
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/tailoring.php
I've never used it before, is the idea to essentially use it as interfacing..? (so sandwich it with lace? or layers of lace, then canvas, then a cotton lining/backing?)
I'm assuming this would be inserted inbetween the collar and the lining?

The jacket pattern is ok for day, but it shows cleavage... is that ok?

And in converting the jacket to a cuff-less pattern with lace at the cuff, would I just hem an open triangle of the side seem, and then attach a few layers of lace and then the lining...? or is there a more historically appropriate way to do it?
Frank815
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Re: Striped Early Bustle Design

Postby Frank815 » Sun Sep 26, 2010 1:16 pm

Yep, thats pretty much it with the collar canvas. it is stronger than regular interfacing, so just use it like you would regular interfacing. As far as the jacket sleeves go, if I remember correctly, the cuff pattern on that bodice is separate, so you would just take the regular two-piece sleeve, attach your lace, then attach the lining. When you do the turning, the lace will be sandwiched between the lining and the sleeve. as far as clevage goes, if you find it is a little too much, just layer some longer lace below the lace that you have there now, and that should solve the problem, plus you can never go wrong with layering lace on one-another.... :D
My fears behind me, gone are the shadows and doubts. That was then, this is my now...
elensari
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Re: Striped Early Bustle Design

Postby elensari » Mon Sep 27, 2010 6:28 pm

Very cute design! Like Frank said, I look forward to seeing you and your delectable creation at Dickens this year.

Your sketch is fabulous by the by.

I look forward to following your progress.
:D
~Kelly
Elegance is a good taste, plus a dash of daring -C.Snow
http://www.waistedefforts.com
Image
aimeekitty
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Re: Striped Early Bustle Design

Postby aimeekitty » Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:07 am

Thanks you guys! Made a little progress on the skirt and skirt trim.
Image
katharine
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Re: Striped Early Bustle Design

Postby katharine » Fri Oct 15, 2010 5:23 pm

Oh my, your dress is going to be so pretty. Can't wait to see it finished.

Katharine

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