Ideas for copying this 1878 fashion plate

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gretagretchen
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Ideas for copying this 1878 fashion plate

Postby gretagretchen » Tue Jun 01, 2010 7:50 pm

I am planning a version on the dress on the left (steel blue with B / W leopard).

1878 French.jpg
1878 French.jpg (65.82 KiB) Viewed 4390 times


I was wondering what you thought in terms of the easiest way to do it.

I was planning on using the trained TV 225 but I wonder about the panels on the side. They seem like overlays since they cover the ruffles. Also it seems that the skirt in the plate is not tied at all. I wonder if the side panels and train should be made as an overskirt instead? If so, should I still use TV 225 as my underskirt or maybe just make up the NF petticoat pattern in fashion fabric since the back will be covered?

For the bodice I was thinking of using the back of the teagown and the fronts, modified collar and cuffs from TV 405.

I'm open to suggestions on all of this.
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Bookwyrm
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Re: Ideas for copying this 1878 fashion plate

Postby Bookwyrm » Thu Jun 03, 2010 1:29 am

For the bodice, I would actually just use the tea gown, shortened and with the plain back. Make the foundation (the lining) exactly from the pattern. For the fashion fabric, just split the pattern from the front dart up and down to separate out that chevron front section. Draft the collar from the shoulders of both pieces plus a bit of colalr stand, or just drape it - the 405 collar won't look the same. Definitely use the tea gown sleeves, the 405 sleeves are much looser (from the pictures - I haven't made up either pattern). The cuffs are easy - just trace off the cuff of the sleeve, draw the lines you want on, add a little bit of extra in the circumference, and if it's a coat sleeve remove one of the seams.

For the skirt, I think everything can be applied to the base. I think that the bottom row of ruffles in back actually grows from under the bottom layer in front, a common technique (here: http://www.festiveattyre.com/victorian/p77/aug5.html). The top row in front just dissappears under the side pannel and never comes back. You could make the side pannel as a separate, finished piece, but I would probably tack it down a little back from the edges so it doesn't flip up or flap around. There isn't as much drapery as I would expect to see on an overskirt/underskirt combination.

The skirt could definitely be tied back. Ties didn't necessarily come all that far down - the lowest one could be above her knees.
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Re: Ideas for copying this 1878 fashion plate

Postby Heather » Thu Jun 03, 2010 8:51 am

I actually think those two dresses are the same, just trimmed out differently. The blue skirt should be tied back under the bodice, otherwise they just don't stay back where you need it. You could still use TV225 for your skirt. But move the up to just above them hem on your jacket. And I would do the tail a bit differently. Take the semi-circle piece and instead of putting in in the center back seam, place each half in the side/back seam. You will need to adjust the length of hem on the back piece, to match the longer side of the semi-circle edge. This will give you a long straight center back for your leopard, and the sides will have a ski-slope effect to give you the extra fullness. (hmmm... I should have made this an option on the pattern :bang: )

I think the ruffles on the bottom are just standard all around, no need to get tricky. I think the side panels are laid over, but definitely tacked down so they don't move around. I would use skirt side as a model, only make it 2" wider so all the skirt seams will be covered by the panel.

For the bodice. I agree with Bookwyrm, you can use the teagown and cut your own vest. Or you can also use TV423 which already has the vest in the front, and just needs to be lengthened. Either way, the collar looks more like a cape, with a long back section, too. So using the bodice as a pattern for the cape should work. Lay the front and the back together along the shoulder seam and draw the exact shape of the cape/collar you want in one piece. Hmm... if you use TV423, the upper line of the vest will not work well for adding the collar into the seam. You could move it over to the nekcline, or lay the collar over the bodice, rather than sew it into the bodice.
gretagretchen
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Re: Ideas for copying this 1878 fashion plate

Postby gretagretchen » Thu Jun 03, 2010 9:41 am

OK some questions.

Skirt:

So the leopard panel is essentially freefloating? Just tacked down on both sides and sewn in at the waistband? I can do that! As for the 2 inches wider, and inch to each side? 2 inches to the front? 2 inches to the back? Who cares? It's probably 2 inches plus 1/2 inch seam allowance since I think I will line that panel with the main fabric.

Moving the semi circle pieces which seems like an easier solution versus what I was thinking of doing to get the ski slope. I'd prefer not to have a seam in the leopard piece but the closure of the skirt is in the back. I'm fine with a center back slit that is under the jacket. Or could I put the closure at a different seam -- side back for example?

I think the teagown pattern is best due to the neckline issues. If I make the cut line for the vest at the dart do I still put the darts in? I'm slightly confused how that shaping will work.

I have completely awesome fabric for the leopard now I just need the rest.
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gretagretchen
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Re: Ideas for copying this 1878 fashion plate

Postby gretagretchen » Thu Jun 03, 2010 9:43 am

oh one more question -- how tall do you think the ruffles should be?
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Heather
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Re: Ideas for copying this 1878 fashion plate

Postby Heather » Thu Jun 03, 2010 10:28 am

Yeah, you can move the closure to a sideback seam, no problem. Any seam you want for that matter. And you won't need to add seam allowance to the side panel, the pattern already has that in it. So just add the 2" to anywhere, front, back, six of one, half dozen of the other. Front would be easier, as it is a straight line.

To cut a vest in the TV432, just draw a line from the tip of the first dart to the neckline, about 1" down from the shoulder line would be best I think. Wherever the line looks like it meets the neckline straight to the shoulder, 1/2" in to account for the sewing line, not the cut edge. Then add 1/2" seam allowance to the dart sewing lines and on each side of the new line you just drew. That's all there is to making a vest. The new lines will look like crazy "w" shapes, but once you sew it and put it on your body, they are visually straight. (Well, slightly wide over the bust, narrower at the waist, anyway, but overall a clean line.) You normally keep the second dart as it is. In your pic, it almost looks like the second dart was left out the the ease taken up with the belt, slightly gathering the sides. I personally would keep the dart in and keep the sides fitted and smooth.

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