Troubleshooting a Hoop Skirt

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hailstop
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Troubleshooting a Hoop Skirt

Postby hailstop » Wed Apr 10, 2013 10:39 am

I'm almost finished building my hoop skirt, but I'm having a problem with the hoops bulging at the seams.

Unlike the hoop skirt I made for my wife's wedding gown, which was a-line, I wanted this to have more of a bell shape, so made 6 gores but with convex curves on the sides rather than straight. I'm thinking I should have done more gores since this is a 210" hoop, and, especially at the top, it looks more hexagonal than circular.

But the problem is that the hoops are bending outwards at the seams like in the photo I've attached. Now, I'm wondering if that's simply an issue of having the hoops at their maximum length and following the shape of the fabric, which apparently isn't circular, and if it could be fixed by reducing the size of the hoops?

Or am I basically just SOL.
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Heather
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Re: Troubleshooting a Hoop Skirt

Postby Heather » Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:02 pm

I believe the issue is that you made the panels a trapezoid. The bones are straight across with angled side seams. What you really want is more pie shaped, with the hoops be rounded across each panel. The bulging out fot the side seams is good, you just need to round the top and bottom edges (and the hoops inbetween) rather than straight across. Or, if you cut more panels, it will minimize the effect of the straight lines.
Frank815
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Re: Troubleshooting a Hoop Skirt

Postby Frank815 » Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:07 pm

That's what I was typing heather..... Great minds and all that :wink:

I would also try adding volume with a tulle/net petticoat over a smaller hoop. :)
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hailstop
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Re: Troubleshooting a Hoop Skirt

Postby hailstop » Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:52 pm

Heather wrote:I believe the issue is that you made the panels a trapezoid. The bones are straight across with angled side seams. What you really want is more pie shaped, with the hoops be rounded across each panel. The bulging out fot the side seams is good, you just need to round the top and bottom edges (and the hoops inbetween) rather than straight across. Or, if you cut more panels, it will minimize the effect of the straight lines.


So what I really should have done is curved the top and hem of the hoop skirt, and then ran the hoop casing parallel with that as opposed to having the top and hem straight across, if I'm understanding correctly.

Hmmm...now to think if it would be better just to start over. I'm kinda thinking yes, since there are several other aspects of the hoop that got messed up. For example, in trying to save fabric, I didn't have the side seams parallel with the grain and I think it was strectching as I sewed the side seams, since each panel ended up having one piece of fabric about 2 inches longer than the other. And the casing I used this time is smaller than before and was a royal PITA to work with.
hailstop
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Re: Troubleshooting a Hoop Skirt

Postby hailstop » Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:56 pm

Frank815 wrote:That's what I was typing heather..... Great minds and all that :wink:

I would also try adding volume with a tulle/net petticoat over a smaller hoop. :)


Yeah...especially since I already _have_ said hoop. :-)

When trying out the 210" monster I was thinking "geez, this is big". But then again, I'm not making this to be practical but for fun.

If that other hoop was 180" I probably wouldn't be making the bigger one, but I'm not sure 150" is big enough for me since I'm pretty tall, and even with a corset my waist isn't going to be very small, so I'm trying to maintain proportions. :lol:
hailstop
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Re: Troubleshooting a Hoop Skirt

Postby hailstop » Wed Apr 10, 2013 1:31 pm

I'm starting to thing that I might need to revise my expectations. :-) The hoop feels weak to me, like it's really easy to deform, and that isn't even with any other skirts on top of it.

So my question now is, is it possible to get an effective 180" circumference gown with more of a bell shape, from a 150" a-line hoopskirt?
Frank815
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Re: Troubleshooting a Hoop Skirt

Postby Frank815 » Wed Apr 10, 2013 1:53 pm

I know there is a similarity between height and hoop circumference..... did I read that here..... :?

Anyways, I think your best bet is to try and use the 180" hoop, and add petticoats to make up the difference in volume. Remember, you will need more hoops the larger the circumference.
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hailstop
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Re: Troubleshooting a Hoop Skirt

Postby hailstop » Wed Apr 10, 2013 2:08 pm

Yup. I went from 6 hoops in the 150" hoop skirt to 9 hoops in the 210" hoop skirt.
DannyJane
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Re: Troubleshooting a Hoop Skirt

Postby DannyJane » Mon Apr 21, 2014 1:16 pm

How on earth did you come up with a pattern for a 180" hoopskirt?
We are NOT amused
hailstop
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Re: Troubleshooting a Hoop Skirt

Postby hailstop » Fri Apr 25, 2014 12:13 pm

I made it myself!

I based it on the pattern instructions in Victorian Costuming Volume 1: 1840 to 1865 by Janet Winter and Carolyn Savoy.

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