TV110 Sizing for a Newbie

[Pam]

Hi, I've just ordered the e-pattern for the Victorian corset and could use a little help with sizing, please.

I am a costumed room guide at Lanhydrock House (National Trust) and I wear a late Victorian blouse and walking skirt. I have been wearing an off-the-peg overbust corset from 'Corset Story' but really want something that will fit me better so have finally stopped lurking and made the decision to make my own one - the clothing just doesn't look right with modern underpinnings!

I wear a 38G Bra normally - being fairly well endowed in the boobage department but my actual measurements are:

Bust 43"
Waist 34" (uncorseted)
Hips 40"

So... should I choose G for the waist and Bust (D cup) and F for the hip? Did I get that right, please? I am not as firm in the boobage as I used to be (I'm 63 in July) and I hate the thought of my cups overflowing, as it were... I will DEFINITELY be wearing a chemise and corset cover!

We're recreating the 1893 Costume Ball at Christmas and along with the costume I'm making to put on the static mannequin, I will be making something a little special to wear too, so would love to get the underpinnings right!
Thanks in advance,
Pam x

[Heather]

Yes, that sounds like the sizing I would start with. Though you might want to keep the hip at the size G. You want the hip to be larger rather than smaller, as whatever you take off on your waist has to go somewhere, and the hip is usually the place. If it turns out to be too large, you can always take it in.

[Pam]

Brilliant, thanks so much! Yes, I'll try it with G all the way - after all, that floof has to go somewhere!

Will let you know how I get on

[Pam]

OK, so that toile was decidedly tight (as in 'can't actually lace it up').

Measured again and although the bust is correct, the waist was *cough* a little optimistic.
So...if I cut a size I, what should I do about the cup size, please? I mean, technically, I guess it should be the A cup but having not been an A cup since I was 13 years old...

Any and all advice gratefully received

Thanks,
Pam xxx

[Heather]

The cup size is more about the relative sizes between waist and hip than actual cup size. A bra will fit tight to the ribs under the bust, but a corset will float out in front at the waist size, and go up from there over the bust. If you tummy sticks out as much as your bustline, then you need a smaller cup size. Sometimes that means an A cup.

Something to consider, the corset will be too small when you first put it on. It will stretch out in the first 10 hours of wearing. Think of it like jeans that are tight when you put them on, but by the end of the day are a bit baggy. If it seems 1 size too small the first time you put in on, that means it will most likely be fine after it is broken in.

[Pam]

Thanks, Heather - I have the pattern ready to go in Size I, A cup. I did cut the H with a B cup but there was around a 5" gap at the back and I couldn't lace it down. I re-measured my natural waist at 36, so I think the H would have been a bit optimistic (I've put on a little weight and it always goes to that part of my anatomy ).

I'll cut a new toile next week and let you know how I get on - my hip measurement is still smaller than my bust though and nowhere near a 46", so I can see I may have to adjust the hip as per your instruction sheet once I have cut and fitted the toile.

Thanks again for your help

Pam x