edwardian corset fit

everything you ever wanted to know about corsets can hopefully be answered here
ekleit
Window Shopper
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 5:59 am

edwardian corset fit

Postby ekleit » Mon Aug 18, 2014 9:08 am

Hello everyone! after lurking for years, I'm finally making my first post here =) of course, I'm immediately bothering you with questions so please don't kick me off the forum ;)

Anyway, I’ve mocked up the edwardian corset and I think I’m almost ready to cut into my lovely broche...However, said broche being rather expensive, I wanted to check to make sure I’m doing the right thing size-wise.

I’m about (I measure in cms) a 27 inch for the waist (uncorseted), 36 for the bust, and 39 for the hips (measured over the lower hips, right? Not the top of the hip bone, but more or less the widest part), for reference.

For the first mock-up I went for the B-cup, size D bust, then curved in to a C at the waist (27-4=23 inches), then curved out again to the size E (40inch) hip (only on the back half, as the instructions say).

I cut the top down pretty soon as it stood out too much, I definitely think I need the low bust. This is what it looks like on, in some very bad pictures:
front:
Image
side (the pad’s underneath)
Image

I love the waist-hip shape!

Now, thinking the bust and hips were perhaps a bit large, I made a second mock-up, this time using size C all over.
Image

Image

Doesn’t look too bad, but compared to the first one I think it lacks some oomph, which I think is due to the lack of extra bust and hip space. Am I correct in thinking the bigger on is definitely the way to go? The bust seems quite loose, but as I understood that’s kind of the point? Here’s a pic of the bust in the first (bigger) mock-up (the pads aren’t inserted, but then again they’d sit lower than the gap so I don’t think that’d really matter).
Image

A peek down the top to show what it looks like from above:
Image

Because I’m so bad at lacing anyway and even worse at it in mock-ups, I decided to try it on again using Heather’s method (sewing a strip to the CB and leaving the front open rather than the other way round). Here’s the result:

Image (love love love that side hip shape!)

Image

Image

Now, it’s very hard to judge this I know, what with the lack of bones and all, but I’ve two “concerns” left:
- the waist: with the laced mock-up, I closed it pretty easily. I’m wondering whether I should make it smaller as I don’t want to end up with it too big…however, the mock-up stretches a lot more than my broche, it hasn’t got bones yet which will both make the cinch less dramatic and add width to the waist, and 23 inches already seems pretty small to me (I don’t have a lot of soft tissue to shift around). Then again, I’ve read about people being able to cinch a lot more comfortably in this corset than in other styles…
- Bust and hips: when I laced them, they seemed to be okay, however with the open-front mock-up it wasn’t too easy to get the edges to meet. Would the fit be better if I went up yet another size in bust and hips? Or should I just forget about fit, but increase anyway and just pad some more if needed?

That got long, so I’m shutting up now. If anyone could just tell me which of my trails of thought are most correct, I’d be very grateful :)
Heather
Site Admin
Posts: 5873
Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 6:03 pm
Location: Riverside, CA
Contact:

Re: edwardian corset fit

Postby Heather » Mon Aug 18, 2014 1:29 pm

I like the first one, rather than the second. The second looks a bit small in the bust. In truth, I'm not even sure you can fit a mockup of this corset. It shifts your whole posture and moves your ribcage. So if you make it fit you as you are, then it doesn't really do what it is supposed to do. If that makes sense.

I would just make up the whole corset in test fabric (like twill or canvas), bone it and everything, and then see what it does. If you want to make changes, make them on your pattern before you cut out your expensive fabric. It can help to have a grommet strip of fabric that you can sew in and reuse for different trials, rather than putting in new grommets for each version.
ekleit
Window Shopper
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 5:59 am

Re: edwardian corset fit

Postby ekleit » Tue Aug 19, 2014 7:52 am

Thanks for the comment Heather! I'm glad you also like the roomier version more, and that's making me quite confident that that's the one to go with...from what I've read, your sizing is quite trustworthy and this corset shouldn't be "overfitted", so maybe I should just have more trust and go with it. Though it couldn't hurt to add a few boning channels to the mock up and maybe experiment with letting some of the seams out just to be sure. I actually think it'll be alright, I'm just one of those extrrrremely indecisive people!

Return to “Corsets”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests