Fabric Questions

everything you ever wanted to know about corsets can hopefully be answered here
Spittens
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Fabric Questions

Postby Spittens » Sat Feb 11, 2012 6:25 pm

Hello everyone! I'm new to the board and I must say this place is wonderful! I have a couple questions I'd like to pose, I'm going to be attempting the Silverado corset soon and I'm curious if anyone has had experience with the following:

Just wondering if anyone has tried to use the "coutil substitute" called downproof ticking? It's 1/3 the cost of actual coutil!

How much curve does the pattern actually have at the lower back edge? I have a pretty significant pinch to my waist combined with a bubble butt (according to my husband it should have it's own gravitational pull . . . ), and in all of my corsets to date I've had to slash and "add" gussets to shaped seam corsets, otherwise I get pressure points at my lower back and a squished up shelf bust. According to my measurements I should cut a size 18 bust, 16 waist, and 22 hip.

And last but not least . . . I can't decide which taffeta to use! These are my two options:

2012-02-11_17.12.19.jpg
2012-02-11_17.12.19.jpg (124.35 KiB) Viewed 18767 times


Sorry for the massive pic, but I can't get it to resize.

Thanks in advance ya'll!
ljt
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby ljt » Sat Feb 11, 2012 7:19 pm

Welcome aboard, It is lots of fun. I really like the green as far as the fabric goes. I have used a ticking to make a corset, it gives alittle more than the coutil.

Loretta
LidiaBest
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby LidiaBest » Sat Feb 11, 2012 10:28 pm

Have you seen the coutil at tutu.com yet?;


http://tutu.com/fab_lining.html

It's only $9.80 for white coutil and $13.80 for black.
Lidia Best
marylou426

Re: Fabric Questions

Postby marylou426 » Sun Feb 12, 2012 7:34 am

This was the first corset I made. I would say first of all READ Heathers tips on the LM corset. (I didn't find them until mine was almost done). I used 2 layers of quilters cotton and twill because its what I could find, it may not have been the optimal choice but it works fine. Mock-ups will be your best friend for a corset. I did the hip gores, I'm curvy and the first on I made with out the gores, did nothing for me, I couldn't close it. You need the gores at the bottom so there is a place for everything to squish into. I did find that after I finsihed my corset and wearing all day at a few events there are some things I'll do differently on my next one. I'll shorten the back and cut deeper under the arm holes. But thats just for personal perfernce. Good uck on your corset adn remember we all love pictures here.
Spittens
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby Spittens » Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:15 pm

Oh no worries, I can't make a solid decision to save my life so I will likely be asking all kinds of "what do you think looks better?" questions with samples and pics. I'm planning to do a mock-up most definitely, with the hip gores since I've had to add them to every corset I've owned to date, lol. If I can get the sizing figured out the rest should be pretty easy peasy, just time consuming. I was also thinking of maybe cording or quilting the bust and hip gores, but not sure if that would end up too "busy" in the end. I also plan to add quite a few bones as well, but where will have to be decided when I get the mock up made.

I think I'm leaning towards the green taffeta as well, in the pic it looks like green shot with red but it's actually shot with a violet color. I have this coppery one that's shot with navy blue too, my husband really likes that one but I'm kinda in love with the green! I was thinking of doing some heavy flossing and embroidery up the bone channels like below in violet to match the shot color.

gallery-c-historical-5.jpg
gallery-c-historical-5.jpg (28.05 KiB) Viewed 18731 times

(i don't remember where this pic came from and cannot for the life of me find it again)

I'm also probably gonna order the ticking, It's worth a shot and if it proves too weak for my purposes I'll just use it for a pinstripe waist cincher skirt I have planned to wear at the office and order some of the real stuff. I'm slowly collecting the materials I'll need to do this since I REALLY shouldn't buy any more fabrics or sewing stuff, my rule is that I cannot buy stuff for new projects until I get at least two of the ones I already have in the works finished (eventually I'll get caught up I hope . . .). Otherwise I'll end up one of those hoarder women who can't find her husband under the piles of fabric!

Thanks everyone for your help!
Andrea L
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby Andrea L » Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:53 pm

The red corset's from here--it's on my favories list!

http://thestaymaker.co.uk/gallery-corset-historical.php

Hey if the ticking turns out not to be good for your corset, at least you can use it for flatlining bodices!

Yeah, I told myself I wouldn't buy a ton of fabric...until you find THE PERFECT fabric for a future project, on sale, and you haven't found it anywhere else...yeah. That's why I have two plastic bins filled with fabric, and I've only been at Victorian clothing for a little over a year.
Spittens
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby Spittens » Mon Feb 13, 2012 3:37 pm

Thanks for the link! I'd had that pic saved for so long I'd forgotten where it came from originally.

I'm sure if the ticking isn't strong enough I can find a use for it. Eventually . . .

Now if only I can get the mock-up fitted right . . .
Erin
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby Erin » Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:26 pm

Spittens wrote:I'm also probably gonna order the ticking, It's worth a shot and if it proves too weak for my purposes I'll just use it for a pinstripe waist cincher skirt I have planned to wear at the office and order some of the real stuff. I'm slowly collecting the materials I'll need to do this since I REALLY shouldn't buy any more fabrics or sewing stuff, my rule is that I cannot buy stuff for new projects until I get at least two of the ones I already have in the works finished (eventually I'll get caught up I hope . . .). Otherwise I'll end up one of those hoarder women who can't find her husband under the piles of fabric!

Thanks everyone for your help!


Bwahahaha! You're so cute! I live more like Andrea L these days, though I have limited myself to a single closet and drawer system for fabric and sewing supplies. I'm glad I have so much now though, since fabric prices are soaring ($24.99/yd for dupioni?!) and I bought most of my stuff for stellar prices. It's also nice to be able to table a current project in favor of something new and more timely, and just reach into my stash for whatever I need. As in, "Crap! I've got to get tooling on my Titannic garb! What the heck am I going to make that day dress out of? This season's selection at JoAnn's sucks... hey, I have 7 yards of Italian suiting wool that would be perfect!!" Plus, finding fabric I've forgotten about is a little like Christmas ;)
:fence:
Spittens
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby Spittens » Tue Feb 14, 2012 8:23 pm

@ Erin - Sad thing is you think that's cute but I'm deadly serious about that rule. I have two walk-in-closets at home in TN full of fabric, and I'm already starting to fill up the one I just got out here in seattle! I have a serious problem with collecting fabrics and trims. My only exception is white cottons (if it's a really good sale) because I ALWAYS have a use for those! Linings, era undies, modern nighties, summer dresses, shirts, pretty cutwork hankies, whitework lace, embroidered pillowcases, the list goes on!

If you want some cheaper dupioni or taffeta try http://www.puresilks.biz/. It's the real stuff (silk!) and it's really high quality and for about half the price of what you find in Jo-Ann's (I really only go there to match up thread and get notions, their fabrics section is getting remarkably unimaginative lately). I used their taffeta for my grandmother's civil war ball gown last year and it was LUSCIOUS to work with. Sometimes they get hacked and the cart messes up though. Also, this eBay seller http://stores.ebay.com/BangkokThaiSilk?_rdc=1 has some lovely silks and faux silks. That's where I got my two taffeta's shown in the first post. Shipping takes a bit to get to you but the fabrics are SOOOO worth it.

Now don't go spend a bunch of money on silk without showing us what it's for!! And tell your pocketbook I am truly sorry for sharing that information.
Erin
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby Erin » Wed Feb 15, 2012 1:27 pm

I can't complain... for a long time I had a rule that I wouldn't spend any more than $6/yd on silk, and I didn't. I'm half way through a striped silk taffeta (the really heavy stuff, courtesy of ebay) dinner gown, but it's all on hold at the moment. Next on the block is 19teens (Titannic, duh!) corset, petti, day and evening gowns. The evening gown will be pale periwinkle sandwashed silk (hello drapery scarves!!) with an embroidered overlay. I broke the rule big time for that and bought a sari that took my breath away - waiting on it to arrive from India as we type. Otherwise, I haven't bought much fabric lately. I need to get sewing again, but school and work have sucked up all my free time. Goal for this weekend: finish cleaning out my bedroom and clearing off my sewing table! Thanks for the recommendations :)
:fence:
Spittens
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby Spittens » Thu Feb 16, 2012 10:40 pm

You're very welcome! I'm in the same boat, too much time in the real world and not enough behind my sewing mahine . . .
Dede
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby Dede » Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:48 am

LidiaBest wrote:Have you seen the coutil at tutu.com yet?


Saw it... bought it... already cut it. Please tell me, though -- is it okay to use it for face and lining both? Machine washed and dried on hot, and it's still quite stiff. Is this normal? I wrote to Claudia at Tutu.com, and she said "corsets aren't supposed to be comfortable." I want my daughter to actually enjoy her prom! --help?
Last edited by Dede on Sun Feb 19, 2012 1:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Heather
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby Heather » Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:55 am

Coutil is stiff my nature, but it will be fine. She needs to wear something under the corset anyway, so she won't be feeling it. A tube-top works great for under pron-style corsets.
Dede
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby Dede » Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:03 pm

Heather wrote:Coutil is stiff my nature, but it will be fine. She needs to wear something under the corset anyway, so she won't be feeling it. A tube-top works great for under pron-style corsets.

Thanks, Heather! Hopefully she'll get through the night unscathed.
Andrea L
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby Andrea L » Sun Feb 19, 2012 2:19 pm

Dede wrote:I wrote to Claudia at Tutu.com, and she said "corsets aren't supposed to be comfortable."


Oh, don't get any of us started on that statement...

Though it is nice that the coutil there is of decent quality. I might snag some the next time I make a corset.
Dede
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby Dede » Sun Feb 19, 2012 2:41 pm

Andrea L wrote:Though it is nice that the coutil there is of decent quality.

I can't vouch for that -- this is my first coutil... ever! Not really sure if it really is of decent quality. It might be, but I really have no idea what "decent" is supposed to look like. How's that for noncommittal? :mrgreen:
LidiaBest
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby LidiaBest » Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:34 pm

I've used the coutil from tutu.com a couple times and I think it is pretty good quality! I liked it better than the twill I used to use for all my corsets.
Lidia Best
Spittens
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby Spittens » Mon Feb 20, 2012 12:03 am

Up until this point I've just used really heavy non-stretch denim, or a nice tight woven twill, but noticed some stress on the outer layer of the corset. I would think that anything that has some "give" to it would need to be very carefully planned out so that there won't be stress wrinkles on the outside where the fabric is trying to stretch to accomodate the movement of the strength layer (I am FAR from an expert on this!). I would think that most anything with that tight a weave would be quite stiff, especially after a hot water bath and a go in a hot dryer. Think about how your jeans feel right after you washed them, as opposed to when you throw them back on after wearing them for a few hours before. I personally hate freshly washed and dried jeans, far too stiff for comfort!

If the ticking doesn't cut it I'm gonna try the tutu.com coutil, I'll probably use the ticking for the mock-up of my corset. Also, I have heard from some buddies of mine experienced in corset making that imported coutil is much much better quality than the domestic stuff (at least here in the USA).

And as for the "corsets aren't supposed to be comfortable" comment, I'd MUCH rather wear a corset than a modern bra! I HATE BRAS with a bloodred passion. Not to mention they never stay down and cut into any sideor back fat one may have to create unappealing little rolls. Yeah, I'll take my corset over a bra any day, which is one of the reasons I'm figuring out how to make them on my own! It can be quite an expensive affectation.
Spittens
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Re: Fabric Questions

Postby Spittens » Fri Feb 24, 2012 2:52 pm

So I got the ticking today! It's actually a nice fabric, but it has too much stretch in the weave for me to be comfortable using it for corsetry. It's almost like a really, REALLY heavy and tightly woven muslin. I do think it would be great used for a heavy duty bustle frame fabric (but too heavy for the ruffles) or as a flatlining for a bodice. Oh well, must push back the corset again until my coutil gets here. :bang:

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