closed front and corset binding

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pullinfortexas
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closed front and corset binding

Postby pullinfortexas » Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:14 am

If I want my top and bottom binding to be the same decorative fabric as my corset how would I do that?

Also I wanted to make a corset without the busk and have a closed front. I'm not really sure how to attach the two front pieces to have a center seam and still be able to insert boning on both sides of the seam to take the place of the busk. Any suggestions?
Michelle Pullin
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Re: closed front and corset binding

Postby Heather » Wed Jan 05, 2011 10:11 am

Making the corset with a center front seam it super easy. Instead of sewing the busk in, you sew the left front and right front together, first with the fashion fabric, and then with the lining fabric. Next, lay the fashion fabric over the lining, with wrong sides together. Then you sew the rest of the corset as per the instructions. WHen sewing the boning chanels, you will need to "stitch in the ditch" down the center front seam, and then two more lines, each 3/8" to the sides of the center front.

For the binding, you will need to cut, press and sew your fabric into bias strips. Start by cutting bias (diagonal) strips of fabric 3 1/2" wide. sew the strips together, end-to-end to length if needed. Then fold the strip in half lengthwise. To sew in on, place the raw edge along the edge of the corset, and sew on with 1/2" seam allowance. Then take the folded edge over edges the back side, and sew in place. There are many tutorials on the web about cutting and sewing bias binding. Most of them are for binding quilts, but the methods are the same.

Here is one for cutting the tape:
http://pir8.freeservers.com/quilting/CBT/#directions

Here is one for sewing it on, though I think sewing the back side on by hand is best:
http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/apply-bias-binding
pullinfortexas
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Re: closed front and corset binding

Postby pullinfortexas » Wed Jan 05, 2011 2:38 pm

Thanks, that helps a lot.
Michelle Pullin
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Re: closed front and corset binding

Postby Soundbrigade » Thu Jan 06, 2011 3:52 am

The front pieces could be cut in one piece by placing the pattern on the fold, subracting, of course, the seam allowences.

The problem with a corset that has a closed front is that it is so boring getting on and off. I have bought, but still haven't tried Boot Hooks hoping that they will make it easier getting on and off the corset.

If it is a mattor of making the busk invisible, I have on a few occassions prolonged the front piece on one side to make a flap that covers the corset hooks/knobs.
Magnus

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Run in circles, scream and shout.
pullinfortexas
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Re: closed front and corset binding

Postby pullinfortexas » Thu Jan 06, 2011 9:26 pm

I don't want the busk to be visible and it is hard to get those buttons hooked which is why I was considering a closed front. However, I would still like the sturdiness of the busk so I was planning on replacing it with boning. If I put the front piece on a fold and sew in channels would they be strong enough without the seam allowance as extra support? Also how did you add a flap? I was trying to assess my old corset to see if I would be able to do that I'm not really sure how.
Michelle Pullin
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Re: closed front and corset binding

Postby Soundbrigade » Fri Jan 07, 2011 2:10 am

The fabric itself must be stronger than the seams, that's one advantage of a non-busk front.

The flap is don roughly by adding 2" to the ??? (right? left?) front piece - fashion fabric only, sewing the fashion fabric and lining together - skipping the places where the busk's hooks will pass through. Then I fold the front piece together making sure it is aligned.I make a stitching along the seam (that connected the lining and fashion fabric) but keep the stiches slightly outside ...

... I have to make some drawings to show you how I mean. I have all my sewing stuffed stored away, but can grab a few scrap pieces of fabric and make a "short introduction to corset flaps".
Give me a day or so.
Magnus



When in trouble, when in doubt

Run in circles, scream and shout.
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Re: closed front and corset binding

Postby Bookwyrm » Sat Jan 08, 2011 12:35 am

There are a few tricks to closing corsets - I usually start with the top hook, then the bottom hook, then I unhook the top and bend the busk halves to keep pressure on the bottom while I'm fastening the other studs from the bottom up. It helps if your laces aren't too loose - they help maintain tension and keep the corset around your body while you're doing up the busk.

Here is a very simple busk flap. It's just applied to the front. You could also do something like that except from the other side - apply a pocket holding the studs side of the busk to the back of the appropriate front. Then the front would act as the flap.

http://community.livejournal.com/corset ... tml#cutid1
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Re: closed front and corset binding

Postby Soundbrigade » Sat Jan 08, 2011 1:46 am

Still having my stuff stored and rather inaccessible I can give another hint regarding the flap. There's one description how to do it in Past Pattern's Madame Foys skirt supporting corset.
Magnus



When in trouble, when in doubt

Run in circles, scream and shout.
pullinfortexas
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Re: closed front and corset binding

Postby pullinfortexas » Sun Jan 09, 2011 9:17 am

Thank you everyone for your help and suggestions. :D
Michelle Pullin

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