Fitting the mock up - LM100 Dore - *Updated*

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Channyn
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Fitting the mock up - LM100 Dore - *Updated*

Postby Channyn » Sun Jun 27, 2010 7:52 am

I'm undertaking the LM100 Dore corset pattern, and could use a little help. I've cross-posted this to the beginner corset making group at LJ, but I would really love some input from this board as well.

I've taken some pictures of my muslin mock up, and to be honest I can't tell if it's fitting right or not. I'll post the pictures (which are pretty bad, sorry about that) and I would really appreciate any thoughts about the way it is fitting.

A couple of things:
This is the Laughing Moon 100 Dore pattern, however I used the B Gore from the silverado and added it between panels 3 & 4 at the hip, because I know my shape and I didn't think the hip would fit otherwise.

The mock up is only boned at the front - no busk for the mock up, it's sewn shut with 1/2" flat spring steel on either side of the center seam, and in back: more 1/2" spring steel next to the grommets.

Image
Front view

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Left side

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Right side

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three-quarter back view, although I was kinda twisted and bent so it may not be so useful for fitting concerns

Image
back view, my biggest area of concern.

To be honest, I could have laced it completely shut, but I also think the hip is not fitting right (too small?), so I don't know how the reconcile the two. I'm not even sure the hip is too small, or if that is a product of not enough boning. Same with the wrinkling in the waist in back - is that due solely to the lack of boning, making the hip ride up since my rear end is so much enormously huger than my waist?

Should I add another gore in the back, but make both gores smaller? I think the gore really helped with the fit, but it kind of changed the basic shape of the Dore which is a shame, I really liked the smooth side line it gives on others. I guess my body just isn't shaped that way.

Another area of concern is the side seam (where the gore is inserted). It looks like it's pulling to the front, does that mean my proportions are off somewhere?

And as far as the lacing able to close completely - since the final will be much sturdier and less prone to stretching, should I leave it as is or should I take a little off at the waist and bust somewhere? The top edge is a smidge loose, but I would rather not have muffin top and I plan to put a lace through the top binding to cinch it a little, so I don't think I need to cut the top edge down much, if at all. I am reluctant to even think about cutting the hip down some, because if I cut the waist I need to leave room for the squish to go, right?

Thanks so much for any assistance or feedback you can provide.

Sorry about the huge pictures - I did try to resize them but it's not working for some reason
Last edited by Channyn on Mon Jul 05, 2010 2:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Heather
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Re: Fitting the mock up - LM100 Dore

Postby Heather » Sun Jun 27, 2010 8:55 am

Looks to me like you still need more room in the hip area. I don't like the whole "add bust gores to the hip" thing, though. It is a silly cheat that doesn't work well enough.

Have you read the help section here? http://trulyvictorian.com/LM100.html It will say pretty much everything I know about how to fit the corset.

I would definitely remove the hip gore and cut the hip to a larger size as needed. (as directed in the above link.) This will keep the smooth line you like, but give you the room you need over you hip. It will also spread the flair around your body, rather than stick in just one spot. By the looks of it, 3 sizes larger in the hip might be about right, but do the math and see what you need.

The heights and lengths look good, so I don't think you need to change anything there. Or if anything, you could raise the top about 1/2". Though I have a feeling this is might be more an issue of you needing to lift the corset up the 1/2" rather than lengthen it. The historical waist line is quite a bit higher than the current mode, so it is very common to pull the corset waist lower than than it should be. Or it might be that the bunching caused by the lack of boning could be shrinking it down, too.

Make is smaller? Not really sure. The corset will still stretch over time with your heavier fabric. But not as much as your light mockup. Unless you are using silk or nylon fabric, in which case it wont' stretch at all. If you know that you could pull in the waist more than it is now, then I would go smaller. The larger hip space will hopefully let you pull in the waist easier. But don't expect or try to overdo the smaller waist thing. Better to have a moderate shape and be comfortable.

Well, that is my 2 cents.
Channyn
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Re: Fitting the mock up - LM100 Dore

Postby Channyn » Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:37 am

That was fast - I really appreciate the input Heather!

The corset will in fact be silk, flatlined with a medium twill and another layer of twill for strength. The silk is an 80/20 silk/poly blend so maybe slightly tougher than a typical silk, but I still don't want to overly stress it. Hence the double twill layer.

I'll forgo the gores and recut another mock up with a larger hip. I did read that info page much earlier in my project, but I guess it didn't all quite click.

I did keep pulling the corset up, and it kept moving back down with all my twisting and moving. I think that may be due in part to not being boned.

I can definitely close the corset all the way, but then most of the hip area rides up to sit at the waist. I'll do the next in the same size at the waist and bust, enlarge the hip, and go from there. I can always nip the waist if it feels big.

Thanks again for your input.
Bookwyrm
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Re: Fitting the mock up - LM100 Dore

Postby Bookwyrm » Wed Jun 30, 2010 11:31 pm

Hiya! Nothing more to contribute (I think I left you a note over on LJ) but I figured I'd give you a wave. I'm rabid_bookwyrm over there.
Channyn
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Re: Fitting the mock up - LM100 Dore

Postby Channyn » Mon Jul 05, 2010 2:55 pm

Well hello there Bookwyrm!

I've re-done the mock up, following your suggestion Heather. I cut a new pattern following a larger hip size, and I think it's much better. I still feel the bust and waist are too big, since the corset closes in back at those points, although I also know part of that is due to the zipper I had in front (I had no busk at hand)

The new version is two layers of twill, boned at the seams with two zip ties in each channel, two channels per seam. The final will have far more boning channels! Next to the zip in front are 1/2" spring steels (two per channel) as well as 1/4" spring steels. The grommet strip (from the original mock-up) is also boned with 4 1"4 in spring steels on each side. The edges are lined up exactly with the CB edges of the corset underneath.

I know I should have trimmed everything and sewn it in place. I may still do that tonight, since the back is still kind of folding in and the steels are sliding out of the fabric. Maybe to save time I'll just do the back panels, since those seem to have the most issues.

I think I need to lengthen the back at the bottom, maybe an inch. I also think the bustline needs to be raised in front about an inch. Does that look right? And if I were to take an inch off at the waist and bust, which seams should I do that from?

Front:
Image

Front 3/4:
Image

Side:
Image

Back:
Image

Thanks!
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Re: Fitting the mock up - LM100 Dore - *Updated*

Postby Heather » Mon Jul 05, 2010 4:07 pm

Well, hmmm, still have a few things going on that need to be addressed.

First off, what sizes did you choose? Did you say before, cause I can't seem to find it. I'm not liking the side view that has the seams going backwards at an angle. That should be addressed by using a smaller cup side but a larger overall chest size. If you are using the D cup pattern, go down to the B cup I think. In the first pics, I was thinking that slant was caused by the lack of boning, but I can see now that the front cups are just too big for you.

Next, the hip looks better, but.... I think you need to taper to the larger sized hip more gradually. Rather than have the hip jut straight out and then down, try to curve your seams so that it eases out and then continues out at and angle. Sometimes it is easiest to pivot the pattern at the waist and swinging the hip out to the hip size you want, to get a nice gradual curve. That will give you a nicer profile line.

Last, the height issue. I still think you have the corset set too low your hips. The corset waistline should actually be at the level of your lowest rib. Where you have it now is just above your hip. Try on the corset again, and this time place the top of the corset at mid nipple, where it should be. Then lace it up as it sits and see how it goes. Most people try to pull the corset down under their ribs, but it really should not be more than 1/2" below your last rib.
Channyn
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Re: Fitting the mock up - LM100 Dore - *Updated*

Postby Channyn » Mon Jul 05, 2010 4:55 pm

I'll try to put the corset on a bit higher. To answer your other questions, I used the size B pattern, 26 for waist & bust, to the 34 for hips. I did try to ease the line as gradual as possible, starting from the waist and hitting the 34 line about 3" from there. Should I have tapered it from the waist down to the bottom of the hip? In retrospect I can see how that would have made a smoother line.
Channyn
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Re: Fitting the mock up - LM100 Dore - *Updated*

Postby Channyn » Mon Jul 05, 2010 5:35 pm

Heather wrote: I still think you have the corset set too low your hips. The corset waistline should actually be at the level of your lowest rib. Where you have it now is just above your hip. Try on the corset again, and this time place the top of the corset at mid nipple, where it should be. Then lace it up as it sits and see how it goes. Most people try to pull the corset down under their ribs, but it really should not be more than 1/2" below your last rib.


So, I put it back on like you said and wow, I think that right there addressed almost all the issues from the newest pictures. I took a few more photos and will have them up in a moment, but once I lifted the corset up a smidge everything looked a lot nicer, especially the back. It's still lacing shut all the way, and now I think I need to take a little bit off the seam between 3 & 4, about 3" up from the bottom. That'll change the shape from the round poof to a straighter line, and it'll address some bagginess that showed up once I put the corset on a little higher.

I can't thank you enough for your help Heather!

Three-quarter view:
Image
Look, a nice figure and everything! This picture is bad but I think you can see the bagginess there between the third and fourth piece along the side, where the wrinkles are. When I pinch the fabric there to get rid of the excess, it loses a curve and becomes more of a straight line from the waist to the bottom of the hip - which I think is pretty much exactly what you already advised me to do :wink:

Front:
Image
You can see the bagginess in the hip here too, on both sides.

Side:
Image
Is that side seam looking a little straighter now? The pictures are bad but I thought it looked better in the mirror.

Back:
Image
Again, please excuse the poor lacing and general wonkiness - at this point I had been twisting every which way to try and get an in-focus picture, which is why the top looks mangled and awful. It looked much better in person.
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Re: Fitting the mock up - LM100 Dore - *Updated*

Postby Heather » Tue Jul 06, 2010 8:43 am

That does look a lot better. And the slant to the side seams is workable. Only, see how it bends back a little before it goes forwards again? The way to fix that is too take the front seam in a little under the bust. This will have the effect of defining the bust cup more, tightening the rib cage. I think a nip there and smoothing out the hip will do it. To make the corset smaller all over, I would take in a small amount on all the back and side panels. It won't take much. 1/4" smaller on panles 3-4-5 (if one is the front, not sure of actually numbering.) will make the corset 1 1/2" smaller overall. Or, you can just make the seam allowance 1/8" wider when you sew up the whole corset, that will take in 2 1/2" overall, if you use 1/16" wider it would be 1 1/4" smaller.

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