need help with LM100

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hdbradley
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need help with LM100

Postby hdbradley » Fri Jan 01, 2010 10:21 pm

I'm getting ready to start my victorian wedding outfit....and I need a new corset. I've made 4 Dore corsets from LM100 so far, and I am not pleased with the fit of the bust/ribcage. I can't seem to figure out how to make the bust fit. I wear a 34D bra, but I have a very small rigcage. The first corset I made fit well everywhere, except at the bust. I was spilling out all over, like a renaissance wench. Not appropriate. After that, I tried altering the sizing around the ribs, trying to give my bust more room....still a similar effect. Finally, on my last attempt, the bust fits decently, but the corset gaps away from my ribs - and i think because of the gap, the entire corset slides down a bit and actually bruises my hips (which didn't happen with any of the other corsets). I'm at my wits end here. I don't know what else to do to make another corset that will actually fit everywhere.....and i can't very well have a disturbing bustline or an uncomfortable corset at my wedding. Please help.

Thanks
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Postby Heather » Fri Jan 01, 2010 11:51 pm

You didn't say what sizes you used, or your measurements, so I can't help with any specifics. But have you looked at the help page here for this corset? http://trulyvictorian.com/LM100.html

Hopefully, this can help you narrow down what you may need help with?
hdbradley
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Postby hdbradley » Sat Jan 02, 2010 12:05 pm

shoot, i knew i'd need the measurements and such. I am out of town for the holidays though - when i get back home next week, I'll post the numbers. Thanks! ^.^
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Postby rangerfeline » Sat Jan 02, 2010 7:52 pm

Correct me if I am wrong, but I was under the impression that the Silverado version was better for bustier figures.
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Postby Heather » Sat Jan 02, 2010 11:50 pm

In my experience, the Dore works better for larger busts. The Silverado works best for smaller bust sizes.

The reason is the Dore will let the bust drop a bit lower into the gradually expanding rib cage area, which gives a wider base of support for large busts, and creates a "minimizing" effect. For small bust sizes, the Dore will completely smash you flat and you look like a tube.

The Silverado does the exact opposite. It lifts the base of the bust high, and tightens the rib cage while leaving the bust free. For small busts, this means you can get a round shape, rather than a flat shape. For larger busts, it juts out suddenly from the rib cage and gives you a "floating" bust lifted up high. More of an exaggerated look. And less secure if you ask me, as I have heard of people who have had the cups litterally flip down and turn inside out (with the use of the wrong boning.)

So depending on what you want from your corset, you can go either way. This just happens to be my personal vision of what is a pretty shape.
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Postby hdbradley » Sun Jan 03, 2010 7:44 pm

so here are the numbers i promised:

my measurements are 36, 28, 38, and i wear a 34D bra.

I generally get a 24 to 25 inch waist with a good corset. I've used the LM100 help that i found on this site for each of my attempts. My first attempt, I used the C cup patterns, sized 10 for bust, 8 for waist, and 12 for hips. the waist and hips fit great! the bust was way too small, spilling me out. So the next attempt i went up to size 12 for the bust, with the same sizes for waist and hips. I still got the spilling effect, but not as severely. so on the next two attempts, i drew the sizes for that size 12 extended further down each pattern piece. The last corset i finished looks decent on the bust, but it gaps away from my ribs and is really far less comfortable overall than the other three.

Should I forget the C cup pieces and move up to the D cup? Or maybe try bumping up to size 14 for the c cup bust?

Thanks!
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Postby Heather » Mon Jan 04, 2010 12:18 pm

Well, theoretically, it sounds like you've chosen sizes should be working. So I am just going to run down the list of things that might be effecting the outcome.

1. So now I have to ask, are you sure your full bust measure is 36"? The cup size 34D would typically be larger than 36", as the D should be adding at least 4" to the 34. You may want to try measuring again, being sure to keep the tape high in the back. Measure while wearing your best bra, over the fullest part of your bust.

2. Next, what does the gap in the back look like? It is even all the way down, or is the top pulling together? If so, then this is a lacing issue, not a fit issue. You need to be able to pull the waist tight, be then have the bust and hip area gradually ease to less tension. It way be that you are used to pulling the entire corset to the same tension, as you would for pre-1800 styles. An easy fix is to make the top 3-4 holes on a separate lace, and then be sure not to over-tighten. Is the gap even or get larger at the top? If so , then it sounds like #1 is more likely the problem.

3. How is the height of the corset? Is it too low, and causing spillage? I am sure that you would notice this, but I have to ask anyway. It should reach mid nipple. This can be somewhat vague as bust can sink, so try the corset on with your best bra, and make sure the corset is reaching up to the mid-line at that height. Or look for the opposite, is it too tall, and lifting up to high towards your chin.

4. Larger busted women often have extra space (or a looser fit) in the rib cage. This is normal for the Victorian period. The idea is to compress the waist, and expand for the ribcage and bust in a manner that accentuates the bust, without restricting it. Most people find this more comfortable. But if this is bothering you, then you may need to take in the pattern slightly at the front seam between bust and waist, giving more of an 'S' shape to the seam, and less straight as the pattern is drawn. It sounds like you tried this one already, so maybe it just needed to be combined with some other issues?

5. Assuming 1-4 just aren't doing the trick. Then it might be your back has very little taper and you only need room in the bust. Try going down 1 size in the bust, and then using the D cup size. So the 8D instead of the 10C. Combine with #4 to keep the rib area small.

6. Lastly, if you really want the rib cage tight, then maybe you would be more comfortable with the Silverado corset instead. This will give you the decided snug rigs, but easy fitting bust.
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Postby hdbradley » Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:00 am

Thank you so much for the tips! The back taper issue hadn't occurred to me either.

I think I'll go with the 8D and see how that comes out!

Thank you!! :) :)
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Postby B0dice_G0ddess » Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:43 am

Forgive me if I'm hijacking the thread but in my opinion, you may get better results with the TV110 pattern. Heather's pattern truly is awesome!!I made three very frustrating attempts with the LM Dore pattern only to get frustrated with the fit and shape the corset created.

Sorry for the hijack...
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Postby hdbradley » Tue Jan 05, 2010 1:50 pm

I'll stick with LM for now...since I have it and also have relatively inexpensive supplies to use on making another couple of attempts. If i can't get things right though, I'll probably end up switching patterns. There's only so many times I wanna use my time and such making items that don't end up fitting properly.
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Postby valleyviolet » Tue Jan 05, 2010 1:55 pm

If you've got a large difference between your cup and band size there will be some space in the corset under your breasts, but the boning should minimize how much it affects the fit and shape of the corset. If the corset is bruising your hips I would guess that the fitting problem is actually in your waist and hips: it isn't tight enough. The corset needs to fit quite snuggly around your lower ribcage, waist and hips in order to distribute all the pressure of your bust and your skirts (which are probably far heavier).

You might want to post some pictures so Heather can give you advice about how high you've placed the top line of your corset as well. If you're trying to over or under lift your bustline it can do weird things to the rest of the fit.

Victorian breasts really shouldn't approach "spilling". When I put my corset on I go from being a 34H to a visual effect more like a C cup (trust me, the size difference is still there, and it's a bitch for fitting bodices). Pulling down your chemise aggressively before you tighten things up can also help to get everything in place.
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Postby Manon Antoinette » Tue Jan 05, 2010 2:01 pm

The Dore offers more a shelf the TV110 offers more "cupping" of the breast. Since I am a 34F (over the bust measure 43") I can relate to the size, if anything, you might want to draw a little more roundness into the part covering the breast and a little more height. The Dore can be too "flat" or straight in the front and pushes more upward.
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hdbradley
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Re: need help with LM100

Postby hdbradley » Sun Jan 31, 2010 4:17 pm

I just finished a "test" corset - using sizes 10D bust, 6 waist, and 12 hip. The bust has greatly improved, however it kind of bubbles out from my breast in a few places - i'm assuming that means that it is too large. The hips also bubble out. Since the hip-bruising issue might be from ill fitting hips, I'll take that 1 size down on the next run. And the waist....I feel like the waist can be cinched down even more - but I'm not sure if it's necessary. I *can* go smaller, but I think that may just be vanity.

I'm gonna start over...again....with sizes 8D bust, 6 waist, and 10 hips. Back to the drawing board i go! :D
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Re: need help with LM100

Postby Sara P » Sat Feb 27, 2010 4:44 pm

I have a similar shape, and I didn't know what the problem with my first Dore corset was until I made a Silverado to wear for Halloween one year. It turned out that the pattern is about 1/2 an inch too short for me between waist and where the bust flare begins. In the Silverado, that meant that the corset was sliding down and sitting on my waist, and giving a very insecure / sagging / gapping feeling in the bust. When I made it, I cut two inches off of the bottom, so I don't know if it would have been cutting into my hips, but it seems likely. When I made my next Dore, I added the 1/2 " at the waist (without changing any other measurements), and it fits MUCH better than my first one did. It feels a lot more secure in the bust area and the ribcage area seems to fit more snugly. It comes just as high on my breast as the first one did, too.

My suggestion is this: trace out the Silverado in the same sizes as you used for the Dore, and try it on. In the Silverado, it's much easier to tell where the underbust begins because of the gores. Try lifting it up to where your underwires usually go, and see if it wants to sink down until the waist sits on your waist again. If so, estimate how much the change is and draft that into your next Dore attempt.

By the way, Heather is completely right about the Silverado vs Dore shaping for ladies with ample bosoms. I made the Halloween one a Silverado on purpose to get the "OMG they are HUGE" effect with my costume.

Hope this helps :)
*hugs*
Sara

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