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Working with the 1903 Trumpet Skirt - TVE21

06/14/15

Working with the 1903 Trumpet Skirt - TVE21

  12:39:00 pm, by Heather   , 593 words  
Categories: Working with patterns

I would like to talk about a couple issues that have popped up with 1903 Trumpet Skirt - TVE21 skirt pattern.    One which is entirely my fault, and the other is one which I have seen pop up a few times when alterations to this pattern go wrong. 

First up, the problem of.....  What the heck to I do with the Placket Facing piece?  I can't find it mentioned in the instructions anywhere, what did I miss?  Well, you didn't miss anything.  This pattern piece should not be on this pattern.  The long story is that I was mulling over two different means of finishing this skirt;  one way was with the lining skirt attached to the skirt proper, and the other way was to have a separate lining.   In the end, I went with the attached lining, in which case, you do not need the facing piece for the placket.   If you choose to make the lining skirt up as a separate petticoat, then you will need the placket facing.  I should have deleted the extra piece, but left it on there.    I am very sorry for the confusion this has caused so many people.  I really need to delete that piece.

Ok, so now to the fun part.   On this pattern, I have two back options, a pleated short back, or a long habit (plain) back.  Usually, when I give options like this, I like the cover the bases and draw things so it will all mix-n-match with all the option combinations.  Unfortunately, in this case,  the pattern ran off the edge of the paper, so I couldn't do that, and instead of offering pleated back in long or short, I just have the short version.  And this has lead to people asking, "can I combine the two and make the long pleated back?"  I answer with a simple yes, and leave it at that, thinking what could possibly go wrong?  And then I saw the results, and smacked my head on the wall.  I never even saw it coming. 

At right,  is the pattern piece I am talking about, and you can see the two options as drawn.  The blue lines are the short pleated back, and the orange line is the long habit back.

So when people asked if they could combine the two, apparently this is what they were thinking was the correct way to do it.  At right, the red line is where they just extended each of the lines they wanted to follow.  The problem is, that this creates a skirt that curved up  shorter in the center back.  Ooops!  How did that happen?  In short, do not lengthen it this way!!!

This is all my fault, of course. I didn't clarify, and I should have. The next diagram at the right, with the green lines, shows how to properly lengthen the pleated back to the longer length. Start by extending the first pleat line to the longer length line. Then from that point, run the new hem lines parallel to the original hem line. 

Oddly enough, no one has ever asked about making the habit back in the short length.  But just in case, here is how to do it.  Starting with the short hemline at the first pleat line, continue with a line parellel to the long hemline until you get to the Habit back line.

Ok, I think those are all the quirks in this pattern.  Hopefully, this will help people get through the pattern without tearing thier hair out over either of these problems.

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3 comments

Comment from:
bragltd

Hi Heather,
Just started working with your patterns. Made the Princesa skirt and now working on the Trumpet skirt. One things that keeps bringing me in doubt is which sides of the patterns to sew against each other. I have been trying to work it out myself, but would like to know the correct way.
For example here A and B, which side of B has to go to A? The straight one or the curving one?

Kind regards and thank you so much for your work,
Josselin - a beginner;)

12/07/16 @ 08:22
Comment from:

Hi Josselin,
When looking at your pattern, you will see the the pieces all have diamond shapes along the side seams. These are called “nocthes” in sewing parlance. These notches are grouped together and placed in such a way that the notch of one piece will match up with the similar notch on the piece it sews to. For example, piece A has 1 notch on the side seam, and sews to the side on B that also has one notch. The second seam on B has 2 notch, which match the 2 notches on piece C, Etc.

Which brings me to a second issue; Piece A should be cut on the fold along the center front edge. The straight edge is not cut, but placed on the fold of the fabric so that it make only 1 piece when opened out. So really, the front should have two curvy edges, without any straight edge at all.

12/07/16 @ 09:43
Comment from:
bragltd

Omg, I never realised that. I thought the diamonds had something to do with waist and hip sizes🤓.Glad I asked.
Thank you so much for the answer, definitely a help haha!
And yes, I have one piece of A:)

12/07/16 @ 12:52


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