Category: "What is the Edwardian Sihouette?"

04/23/15

  11:06:00 am, by Heather   , 260 words  
Categories: What is the Edwardian Sihouette?
 

The 1890's saw the introduction of the Blousewaist and Shirtwaist, but the Edwardian Era saw them reign supreme. As the new century unfolds, the fitted bodice looses favor. The new style becomes full through the lower ribs and the bust shifts to a lower position, otherwise knows as the Pigeon Breast. Made of light or fine fabric or lace, these waists were either tucked into the dress skirt, or ended at the waist with a band. They could be unlined, or have a fitted lining.

at right  - 1903

Below - 1904

 

 

 

 

 

In the early years of the decade, the sleeves are slim at the shoulder, and full at the wrist. By 1904, the fullness had moved up to the elbow, with tall fitted cuffs to the wrist. By 1906, the fullness is at the shoulder.

Necklines are typically very high, with decorated, detachable stock collars. But you could also have short sleeves with a conservative open neckline, as well. The Duchess Square, Duchess Round, and Jewel necklines all become popular, with or without a gimp to fill in the neckline.

Below - 1905

 

 

 

 

 

As the skirts gain pleats and fullness, so do the blouses. Tucks, and pleats are added to the shoulders and sleeves. Or fullness is gathered onto yokes.

 

 

By 1905, a slimmer look through the ribs is desired, and tall, shaped belts are added to emphasize a small waistline. By 1907, the Jumper made it's debut, as a loose overblouse, typically of the same fabric as the skirt, and with an open neckline and sleeves to show a gimp or fitted blouse underneath.

 

Below left - 1906                                                       Below right - 1907

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07/15/14

  01:25:00 pm, by Heather   , 440 words  
Categories: What is the Edwardian Sihouette?

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Truy Victorian has just released a new Edwardian skirt pattern,  the 1906 Ten Gore Princess Skirt - TVE23. With a raised waistline, our skirt fits smooth through the hips and hangs in a graceful flare to the hem. The top has a raised point in the center back, and tapers lower to the center front. It has the smooth fitted back closed with hooks and eyes, known as the "habit" back. The hem line is round at floor length. This skirt is perfectly suited to dresses of 1906 -1908, with it's wide hemline. Pair it with a blouse, and perhaps a long jacket or a copped Eton jacket. 

And here is a little back ground on the Empire skirts of the Edwardian Era:

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At left - 1906

Skirt shapes of the Edwardian era change quite rapidly, with almost every year seeing something new. 1901 starts out the era with the Trumpet Skirt; a shaped skirt that is fitting over the hips and thighs, then flares out below the knee for a wide hem. Very quickly, the slim skirts begin to get fuller at the hem, with the addition of vertical pleats and tucks around the skirt, though the skirt remains lean and controlled through the thigh. By 1904, the skirts are getting wider though the knees and thighs as well.

1906 brings an innovation to the skirts by raising the skirt above the waistline in a style known as the  Princess or  Corsage.   The addition of multiple gores to the skirt (9, 11, 15, and even 24 gore skirts) allows the top of the skirt to fit closely to the body like a corselet. Tall belts achieve the same accentuation of a slim waist with a full hip and bust.

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At right - 1908

1907 sees the skirts getting fuller over the hip, and often gathers are added at the waistline.   The waist front "dip" becomes raised up also, so that the dip is now at the natural waistline, and the back is raised above the natural waist in the Empire Corsage style.  To structurally support this new waistline, the  lining of the skirt becomes detatched as a corselet, independent of the skirt. The outer skirt attaches near the top of the hidden corselet, and fabric "belt" is sewn over the top of the skirt attachement.  The skirt is then allowed to hang with ease over the waist and hips, obscuring the natural waistline.

Below - 1909

By 1909, the slim waist and hip return, with ever slimmer skirts in general. The hidden corselet becomes taller and the skirts less fitted to the natural waistline.   The desired effect is to create a higher-than-natural waistline, with a long smooth hip line, a trend that continues into the next decade.

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