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The Blouse-Waist

04/23/15

The Blouse-Waist

Permalink 11:06:00 am, by Heather McNaughton Email , 260 words   English (US) latin1
Categories: What is the Edwardian Sihouette?
 

The 1890's saw the introduction of the Blousewaist and Shirtwaist, but the Edwardian Era saw them reign supreme. As the new century unfolds, the fitted bodice looses favor. The new style becomes full through the lower ribs and the bust shifts to a lower position, otherwise knows as the Pigeon Breast. Made of light or fine fabric or lace, these waists were either tucked into the dress skirt, or ended at the waist with a band. They could be unlined, or have a fitted lining.

at right  - 1903

Below - 1904

 

 

 

 

 

In the early years of the decade, the sleeves are slim at the shoulder, and full at the wrist. By 1904, the fullness had moved up to the elbow, with tall fitted cuffs to the wrist. By 1906, the fullness is at the shoulder.

Necklines are typically very high, with decorated, detachable stock collars. But you could also have short sleeves with a conservative open neckline, as well. The Duchess Square, Duchess Round, and Jewel necklines all become popular, with or without a gimp to fill in the neckline.

Below - 1905

 

 

 

 

 

As the skirts gain pleats and fullness, so do the blouses. Tucks, and pleats are added to the shoulders and sleeves. Or fullness is gathered onto yokes.

 

 

By 1905, a slimmer look through the ribs is desired, and tall, shaped belts are added to emphasize a small waistline. By 1907, the Jumper made it's debut, as a loose overblouse, typically of the same fabric as the skirt, and with an open neckline and sleeves to show a gimp or fitted blouse underneath.

 

Below left - 1906                                                       Below right - 1907

2 comments

Comment from: Val LaBore [Visitor]
Val LaBoreI would so much like to make a blousewaist like the 1904 one with that neckline. I tried altering the pattern you have with no luck.
06/01/15 @ 12:34
Comment from: Heather McNaughton [Member] Email
Heather McNaughtonVal, what part did you have trouble with; the neckline, the tucks, or the sleeves? Neckline and tucks should be pretty basic; the sleeves are a little more work.

The neckline is just cutting a small "V" neck, and then shaping the trim to match.
06/01/15 @ 13:08

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