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September 1883

04/30/15

September 1883

Permalink 05:42:00 pm, by Heather McNaughton Email , 538 words   English (US) latin1
Categories: Excerps from The Delineator

 


The Delineator magazine was a monthly periodical sponsored by the Butterick Pattern Company.  The main focus was to be a selling tool for the patterns, by providing illustrations and lengthy descriptions of the new patterns as they came out.

The following is one of the listings:

LADIES' COSTUME

The skirt is fashioned in the round, four-gored style, and has two tiny knife-plaitings about its foot; the plaitings upon the gores being surmounted by a deep, bagging puff, which is itself headed by a narrow plaiting sewed on across the top of the puff to form a self-heading. The draperies on the skirt are conspicuous for the novel effect produced by very simple drapings; the back and front draperies being arranged to produce contrasting effects at the sides.  The gores and skirt trimmings are of the plain goods, and so is the front-drapery, while the back breadth and back drapery are of the figured goods, the contrast thus developed being very pleasing.  The front-drapery is raised quite high at the left side by three deep folds, which are laid close together at this side and cross the drapery to the right side in diverging outline, giving a graceful, sweeping curve to the lower part of the drapery, which is cut in deep tabs that are lined with the figured goods and then upturned to produce a most charming effect.  The back-drapery falls in a long point, and is very full and stylish in appearance. Its edges are plainly finished.  Two varieties of silk or velvet combine elegantly in a skirt of this style, and so do velvet and cloth, silk and cashmere, and plain and figured fabrics of all kinds.

The basque has looped tabs attached in regular succession to its lower edge to harmonize in disposal with the front-drapery. The tabs are of the figured goods lined with the plain, and are thus made to present a very pretty contrast with the front-drapery. The basque is of the figured goods, and is elegantly fitted by double bust darts, narrow under-arm gores, low side-back gores and a well curved center seam. It is quite short, but the addition of the tabs produces a pretty and stylish depth. The coat sleeves have looped tabs like those on the lower edge of the basque attached to them, the tabs on each being underlaid with a frill of deep lace, and the seam attaching them being covered by a fold of the plain goods pulled  through an oval slide to wrinkle it softly.  A standing collar encircles the neck, and inside it is worn a lace frill, while outside it is arranged a ribbon that has one end sloped off in a point and pulled through a slide at the throat.  Basques of this style are appropriately made of all varieties of dress goods, and the contrast of the tab-linings may be in color, texture or design, as preferred. Such dress-bodies are very stylish in effect, and require little or no decoration. Just now there is a decided fancy for developing rich contrasts by the introduction of vivid or deep tones in the facings, etc. - for instance: ruby-colored velvet is united with gray or brown cashmere, camel's-hair or other fine dress goods.

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