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October 1880 Short Costume

04/30/15

October 1880 Short Costume

  05:29:00 pm, by Heather   , 498 words  
Categories: Excerps from The Delineator

 

The Delineator magazine was a monthly periodical sponsored by the Butterick Pattern Company.  The main focus was to be a selling tool for the patterns, by providing illustrations and lengthy descriptions of the new patterns as they came out.

The following is one of the listings:

LADIES' SHORT COSTUME

One of the prettiest costumes of the Fall season. Camel's-hair and velvet were united in making it, and lace and appliqué or hand-embroidery are used in trimming it.

The skirt is of the usual shape, and its front and side gores may be cut from lining material only, as they are covered for two-thirds of their depth with shirred fabric. Above the shirring the goods may be flatly laid over the gores in the ordinary manner, if considered necessary. The back-breadth is of the goods, and is trimmed with a flounce cut by the lower part of the shirring pattern and arranged to correspond by directions found in the label to the model, so as to match the front decoration. When the back-draperies, which consist of two, straight, hemmed or lined widths of velvet are added, the skirt appears as if shirred all around, as seen in the engraving. A satin skirt, arranged in this manner, is very dressy indeed. The top of the back-drapery is shirred for quite a distance downward, and is then attached to the belt with the rest of the skirt.

The waist-portion is cut with a deep, double breasted vest of velvet, with an extended skirt, which reaches to the middle of the back, where it is laid in upward-turning plaits and the two sides are joined under the back by a center seam. The front is in short jacket shape and is fitted by a bust dart that confines the back edge of the body portion of the vest, which is curved to the figure without darts, except a short one over the hip, An under-arm gore adjusts the remainder of the jacket-portion, being joined to the side-back, except along its skirt edge. This leaves the side-back skirt loose at its front edge, and its back edge is joined to the back, while the center seam is left open below the waist-line, thus producing a broad tab at each side, each tab-end being gathered and tipped with a tassel or drop-ornament, as preferred. The jacket edges are bordered with narrow ecru lace and have a band of appliqué or, if preferred, a design in hand-embroidery as a heading to the lace. A velvet lapel-collar is about the neck, giving the latter a very jaunty finish. The sleeves are very novel in construction, and, with the waist, are intended to convey the effect of a jacket slipped on over a velvet polonaise. They are of "three-quarter" length and are finished to correspond with the rest of the jacket-, and under their lower edges are slipped and fastened deep, velvet cuff-sections, cut like the lower part of a sleeve and finished plainly at the wrists.

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1 comment

Comment from: Leiflynn Jeffery  
Leiflynn Jeffery

Ooh, this is gorgeous! I would love to make this one up for sure. Love the Delineator magazine and you for bring it to us. Thank you for your great work!

09/22/15 @ 13:29


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