Truly Victorian has just released it's newest pattern; an overskirt to go with the new Imperial Skirt and Bustle. The 1887 Cascade Overskirt - TV367
This overskirt is drafted based on an actual garment as seen in the October 26, 1887 edition of La Mode Illustre. The front apron is a long swag, pulled up high onto the hips in large pleats that fan beautifully. A slit in the center front hem forms 2 points. The back is in two pieces, and falls in graceful cascades down the center back forming two points. The cascade is achieved through creative pleating, highlighted by 2 burnous pleats. The closure is in the center back. The apron is cut on the cross grain.
This overskirt is ideal for lengthwise stripes, which would then go across on the front, and downward in the back. Any light to medium weight fabric will be suitable, however.
For more information on Burnous pleats, we have a blog post all about them.
And of course, you can find this pattern at our shopping pages.
If you have already made the new 1887 Imperial Tournure, aka bustle, then now you need something Imperial to go over it. Truly Victorian's newest pattern, TV263 - 1887 Imperial Skirt is exactly what you need. For more specifics on the pattern, click here.
1887-1888 saw a very specific skirt shape that was designed to maximize the look of a bustle. The front and sides were very narrow, with the sides extending back over the bustle. The back itself is confined to a cascade over the top of the bustle.
Our 1887 Imperial Skirt comes in 3 train variations; floor length, round evening train, and full square court train. The floor length skirt has a full width back, and is lightly rumples with a single burnouse pleat that also acts as the skirt closure. The round train is of medium length, with a extra wide back made of three 22" wide panels. Gores added to the side back seam let the train transition more transition more naturally across the floor. The closure is between the side back and center back panels on the left side. The full court train is long, square, and double wide. It has 2 burnouse pleats at the top for a rumpled effect.
Below are some of the original gowns that inspired this pattern.
Over the last year or so, I have noticed the Truly Victorian Message Board getting slower and slower, and the outages increasing in frequency. So I finally jumped ship and moved the bulletin board to the new server. It went much more smoothly than I expected. (The last time I tried to move it, it was a week long exercise in frustration and failure. Thank you, programmer people, for creating scripts to make the move so much easier, i.e. Big Dump.)
The Truly Victorian Message Center can now be accessed at http://trulyvictorian.net/phpBB3/index.
Though today some weird issues popped up with the site being unaccessible, I was able to sort it all out. The only reason I can come up with for the issues this morning, was that I maybe left open my ftp client on my screen, and the dogs or cat stepped on my keyboard and wreaked havoc with the servers? All I know is everything was fine last night when I left it.
I currently still have half my website on the old server, .com, and the other half on the new server, .net. But with only the gallery to move now, and some other easy files, I might just get the whole site moved, and finally get away from the horrible server. I will be retaining both the trulyvictorian.com and trulyvictorian.net in the future.
The one thing I really love about the 1903 Edwardian Blouse pattern, is that the originals were so often make out of battenburg lace. I am not able to make my own lace, so I went on a search for some battenberg yardage. I found bits and pieces, but nothing of any size. And then I went to Ebay, and started looking for tablecloths. Still, most of the tablecloths had only a little lace around the edges, the bulk being a solid fabric.
And then I found it! A round tablecloth (72" diameter) with a lot of the lace throughout, and it was in black, no less! There was only the one, so I bought it and hoped it was big enough for a blouse.
So I fold the cicle in half, matching the lace patterns as much as possible, and layout my pattern for cutting. The cloth being round, means that the grain line was really the radius of the circle, from the center to any given point of the outside edge, and top being the center. The fold will be the center front and center back and the rest is in a big arc. I started with the front piece, and layed it out maximizing the lace around the neckline. I would have prefered to have the solid fabric band a little lower, but then I ended up with the solid center getting into the shoulder seam. I had to settle with what would fit. I then placed the center back, to line up the solid parts to the same level as the front. I was worried that the sleeves would not fit, and I would have to make the sleeves 3/4 length. But they fit perfectly, once I placed the sleevehead evenly on the solid center bit.
I know that I need to stabilize the neckline first thing, or it will stretch and do horrible things. So I quickly finish the center back edges, and do up the shoulder seams. Because of the lace, I did french seams to make them neat and actually hold a seam. I made the collar out of a cotton broadcloth, and put it on. This will be covered up with a stock collar that buttons on, so I am not worried about it not matching.
The side seams are next, and now its on to the sleeves. One seam, and gather the wrists to fit a cuff. For the cuffs, I started out with just the broadcloth. But it really didn't match well. So I added an overlay of the batternberg edge, with the edge just a tad longer than the cuff proper. Then sewed the sleeves to them. I love how the cuffs came out.
I also cheated with the cuffs, and made them slip on rather than button closed. I didn't want to have to play with button holes in the lace and everything.
Sewing the sleeves to the blouse propper was the most difficult part, I think. Half of the armhole is lace and stretching all over the place, and the sleeve head needed to be gathered to fit. The gathers fit perfectly onto just the solid fabric portion of the sleevehead, so that worked out perfectly. I kep thinking "shrink" as I pinned the sleeves in, to combat the stretch factor, and in the end it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. Though I think I may the shrunk a little too much; the armhole seems a bit snugger than it should be. Hopefully, this won't be a real issue.
This just leaves putting the waist band and gathering the front to fit. Again, I used a broadcloth band. It will be covered up with a belt anyway. I still need to add hooks and eyes. but here it is, all put together. I made up a short stock collar with a battenberg overlay.. But for some reason, I forgot to put in on when taking the pics.
So now I need to make a back corset cover, and a black skirt and petticoat. And a black chemise and drawers. Yay, more sewing!
At long last, I finished this dress!!!
I actually finished this a little while ago, and I took pics of it on a manequin in my messy sewing room. But those pics just didn't do it justice, so I wanted to wait until I had a chance to put on the dress, and get some decent photos.
And so, here it is. It still fits, and I looks just like I wanted it to. Now I just need a new top petticoat to go under it. I think this dress is the lightest dress I have ever made. I think it is less that 2 lbs all together.